Woodturning Lathe

No new induction is required for the new Lathe but please read this page and any notices displayed by the Lathe.

(1624 Lathe Manual).

Please follow sensible safety rules:

• Wear eye and face protection
• Don't wear long dangly things (clothes, hair, jewellery)
• Make sure workpiece is secure and can rotate freely before switching on
• If you use hands on the rotating workpiece (sanding or polishing), remove the Toolrest, to avoid getting fingers trapped.

The Lathe must always be left in a safe state and ready for the next user.

1. The Chuck must be fitted to the Headstock with the Thread Locking Grub Screws done up firmly.

2. The Chuck must be fitted with the standard Jaws.

3. The Lathe must be clean and ready to use. If it was turned on without any further checks it must be able to run safely in Forward or Reverse mode.

4. The Drive Belt must be set to the High speed position.

5. Headstock must be at left hand end pointing along the Bed, the Toolrest must be in the middle and the Tailstock must be at right hand end, all clear of each other.

1. Speed is controlled by a rotating knob on the front panel and there is now a speed display.

2. Two ranges of speed are available via a belt and pully system but the high speed configuration should meet must users requirements. The Lathe must always be set to high speed configuration before you leave.

3. The Lathe has a Reverse mode option which means all items attached to the Headstock must be secured to ensure that they do not unscrew themselves if the Lathe is operated in Reverse. You should avoid using Reverse Mode unless you really need it.

4. Most operations on the new Lathe can be carried out without removing the Chuck. We have a Spur and a Face Plate that can be fitted in to the Chuck. The Chuck must always be fitted to the Lathe before you leave.

5. Items fitted to the Tail Stock are now removed using a Knockout bar in the same manner as used for the Headstock on the old Lathe.

6. We now have various Jaw sets for the Chuck. The Chuck must always be left with the standard Jaws fitted.

7. For other differences please see the Manual.

Sliding Headstock along Bed, Indexing, Head rotation and Replacing Drive Belt.

There are two speed ranges which are obtained by changing the position of the Drive Belt.

To adjust the Drive Belt position.

1. Open the belt/pulley access door by unscrewing the 3mm hex key.

2. Loosen the belt by releasing the Locking Handle and lifting the Tensioning Lever.

3. Retighten the Locking Handle with the Tensioning Lever in the raised position.

4. Position the belt on the left or right sets of pulleys according to which speed range you require.

         The High Speed range (left hand pulleys) will provide maximum speed whereas the Low Speed range (right hand pulleys) will provide maximum torque. 
         
         Always remove the belt from the larger pulley first. 
         

5. Re-tension the belt by releasing the locking handle and lowering the tensioning lever.

         The weight of the motor will provide the correct amount of tension. 
         

6. Tighten the locking handle in this position.

7. Close the belt cover and re-tighten the securing screw

Because the new Lathe is able to be operated in reverse mode it is important that any item screwed on to the Headstock is locked in place to ensure it does not unscrew its self when Reverse Mode is engaged deliberately or accidentally.

To remove the treaded Base Plate.

1. Slacken of the two Grub Screws using a ?? hex key.

2. Press in the Locking Button.

3. Unscrew the Base Plate.

4. If it is on too tight place metal rod in one of the side holes of the Base Plate to act as a lever.

To fit the treaded Base Plate.

1. Press the Locking Button.

2. Screw the Base Plate on to the Headstock Drive Tread hand tight.

3. Tighten the two Grub Screws using a ?? hex key firmly.

To remove the Chuck.

1. Slacken of the two Grub Screws using a ?? hex key.

2. Press in the Locking Button.

3. Unscrew the Chuck.

4. If it is on too tight use the Chuck Key as a lever.

5. If it is still too tight fit a long piece of wood across the Jaws of the Chuck to act as a lever.

To fit the Chuck.

1. Press the Locking Button.

2. Screw the Chuck on to the Headstock Drive Tread hand tight.

3. Tighten the two Grub Screws using a ?? hex key firmly.

We now have a range of different Jaw sets and fittings for the Chuck.

• Standard Dovetail Jaws. (Always refit these after you have used other Jaws). These can grip the work piece both internally or externally depending on the style and shape of the piece to be turned.

• Pin Jaws. These allow smaller pieces to be held than the standard jaws. The inside is smooth and parallel, the outside is serrated for maximum grip.

• Stepped Jaws. These have a serrated edge both internally and externally. They give great flexibility by combining standard sized jaws and pin jaws.

• Wide Jaws. These have a serrated edge both internally and externally and can grip much larger pieces than the standard jaws.

• Face Plate. This ring has a 75mm outside diameter and has a dovetail shaped inside which can be gripped by using the Standard Dovetail Jaws.

• Drive Centre. This allows spindles to be turned without removing the Chuck from the lathe.

• Wood Screw. This clamps into the centre of the Chuck for the initial mounting of bowl blanks.

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Persons not on this list may not carry out inductions. Friendly help and helpful advice is encouraged.
Contact for induction via members forum.

The induction notes can be found at Wood Lathe Induction Process.

14/7/2023 Lathe assembled and initial testing completed.

(manual).

Please follow sensible safety rules:

• wear eye protection
• don't wear long dangly things (clothes, hair, jewellery)
• make sure workpiece is secure and can rotate freely before switching on
• if you use hands on the rotating workpiece (sanding or polishing), do so on the opposite side of the work, away from the toolrest, to avoid getting fingers trapped.

1. The lathe has previously been in a state where it needed to start at the lowest speed. This is no longer the case, as this issue has been fixed at some time in the past (we do not know exactly when or by whom). When you are completely finished with the lathe, please make sure you return it to its lowest setting for the next person.
2. The only other thing that makes this lathe different from most is the ability to rotate the headstock to allow you to turn larger blanks. The head rotates which allows to spin huge pieces. If you do this you will need to remove and re-locate the tool arm and rest on the small rail located to the left of the headstock and attach the extension arm (big bit of metal with pins on - located on lathe shelf) to allow you swing the rest into the correct position.
3. Rarely the speed selector seems to malfunction and lathe does not increase/decrease in speed. This is due to the variable adjusting pulleys inside which can get clogged with dust and grime - luckily this is a very simple fix and takes about 10 minutes.
   1. isolate the power
   2. remove the cover on the back of the headstock (3 screws)
   3. remove c-clip, washer and spring on pulley.
   4. apply WD-40 and gently remove the 2 part pulley from shaft (DO NOT be tempted to hit the pulley with anything - it is cast iron and will shatter - you can see someone has taken a chunk out of it already)
   5. clean pulley teeth and de-burr if required
   6. clean motor shaft and replace pulley, spring, washer and c-clip
   7. replace motor cover

A drive center, also known as a grip center, is used in the driving end of a machine (headstock). It is often used in woodworking or where softer materials are machined.

A revolving center, also known as a live center, allows higher turning speeds while avoiding burning and also produces greater clamping pressures.

A lathe faceplate is a basic workholding accessory for a wood turning lathe. It is a circular metal (usually cast iron) plate which fixes to the end of the lathe spindle. The workpiece is then clamped to the faceplate, typically using t-nuts in slots in the faceplate, or less commonly threaded holes in the faceplate itself.

The Extension Arm is a very useful accessory and enables the user the turn larger diameter pieces - especially when you rotate the headstock 45 - 90°

Purchased in May 2018 - This chuck set includes an automatic self centering 4 jack chuck, 4 attachable jaxs (for tenons), face plate , threaded Center, Chuck Key and 2 x allan keys for accessories. Please clean after use and apply oil as required to keep chuck for siezing/rusting

Purchased in May 2018 - This MT2 Drill Head consists of the Head Stock, MT2 Shaft and Headstock Key. Please clean after use and apply oil as required to keep chuck from seizing / rusting

Persons not on this list may not carry out inductions. Friendly help and helpful advice is encouraged.
Contact for induction via members forum.

25/10/2018 - Fixed Speed Control - Ryan Hale - Kinetic friction cones had seized on the Motor shaft. Cleaned and lubricated and now moving freely and fully working again.

NOTE I Did notice that both the motor cones and the shaft cones have chunks taken out of them. I don't see this as a safety concern as the cones and pulley are shielded by a heavy metal plate/cover. The only detrimental affect may be that the pulley belt may wear out and ultimately snap prematurely or it may have chance to jump off and will need putting back on. - That said I will look into prices for replacement cones

24/01/2019 - Fixed Speed Control - Ryan Hale - Kinetic friction cones had seized on the Motor shaft. Cleaned and lubricated and now moving freely and fully working again.