Table Saw - DeWalt DWE7485

The Manual to the table-saw can be found here: you should familiarise yourself with it before using the saw: dwe7485.pdf

This table saw has many similarities with our old table saw, but several key differences. Please read this page carefully before attempting to use the new saw. Notes on the differences will be in bold throughout the article.

• THE TABLE SAW IS THE MOST DANGEROUS TOOL IN OUR WOODSHOP! It may look straightforward to use, but any deviation from correct procedure is very likely to result in an extremely nasty accident.

• THE TABLE SAW IS NOT A GENERAL PURPOSE SAW! It must only be used for the types of cuts it is designed for. In particular:
  • “Rip Cuts” - cuts along the length of a piece of dimensional seasoned timber or sheet material - This is the designed purpose of a table saw.
  • “Cross Cuts” - cuts across the width a piece of dimensional seasoned timber or sheet material - This must be done with the mitre gauge
  • Never use the table saw for other types of cut, especially free-hand cuts, or for cutting irregular pieces of wood that cannot be held flat against the bed and fence (or gauge).

• Check if we have a more suitable tool before using the table saw. The table saw should always be your last option for making a cut.

• Wear PPE! The table saw can damage your hearing, your eyes, and your respiratory system.

This is our table saw. Note the blade guard, riving knife, and fence attached. The cross-cut sledge is to the left of the machine, and the extractor is to the right.

The table saw is only for seasoned timber with at least one straight edge, or timber-based sheet materials.

Do not use it for:

• Other materials, such as plastic or metal.
• Irregular pieces of timber, such as when cutting down lathe blanks. Use the bandsaw for this!
• Fresh-cut or unseasoned timber.
• Timber that doesn't fit the saw.

This section outlines out to set up and make a rip cut, the main intended use for a table saw. Ripping is when you cut along the length of a piece of wood (usually following the grain).

Rip cuts must always be made with the riving knife, blade guard, and fence fitted. NEVER try and rip cut without these in place.

Before making a rip cut with the table saw, you must:

• Inspect the machine.
• Ensure the work area is clear of trip-hazards and obstacles.
• Ensure the material exit area is clear of obstructions.
• Ensure the riving knife, blade guard, and fence are fitted.
• Adjust the blade height to ensure the gullets are just above the surface of your material. (See this video (60s))
• Check your material contains no nails or other hardware.
• Attach the blue cyclone extractor/shopvac to the port on the back of the saw
• Ensure you have push sticks or push blocks to hand. One push stick can be found attached to the saw's fence: two more are attached to the table saw stand
• Put on your PPE (Eye, Ear and respiratory protection are required).
• Tie back hair and remove loose items (jewelry baggy sleeves, hoody tassles, etc.)
• Tell other people in the room that you are using the saw, and invite them to wear hearing protection.

1. Unlock the fence adjustment by pressing the rail lock lever (number 5 in the labelled image above)
2. Spin the fine adjust knob (number 4) or push the fence to the desired location
3. If the fence now extends beyond the bed of the table saw, then lower the fence extension support by gently swinging it over. The fence extension support can engage in two different heights: the higher height allows it to act as a fence for narrow rips, the lower allows it to act as a support: make sure that the support is in the desired position
4. Finally, lock the fence in place using the rail lock lever

• The fence has two possible positions, one for wider rips: if you would like to adjust the fence, please consult the manual

Insert gullet picture here

Insert set up picture here.

When making a rip cut, you must:

• Hold your material firmly against the table and the fence throughout the cut. If your wood doesn't fit between the blade and the fence, you are using the wrong saw. Do not remove the fence to make it fit!
• Feed your material slowly through the blade. If you have to force it, or if you smell burning, stop and investigate.
• Use push sticks or push blocks wherever possible. Many gruesome table saw accidents would have been prevented by using these.
• Never allow your hands to come close to the blade, or inline with the blade.
• Never reach across the saw while it is running.
• Never walk away from the saw while it is running.
• Always shut down the machine before retrieving your material or offcuts.

After making a rip cut, you must:

• Switch off the saw.
• Wait for the blade to come to a complete halt before leaving the area, or collecting your materials.
• Clean up the area.
• Put the padlock back on the machine.
• Return the push sticks to their correct locations (the holster on the fence or the hooks on the tablesaw stand)

Kickback is an incredibly dangerous phenomenon. This is when the saw spits the material back towards the operator at very high speed. The operator's hand is often drawn into the blade at the same time. Watch this video through to understand the dangers of kickback (note: the video is in a simulated environment hence there is no gore):

To avoid kickback when rip cutting you must always:

• Have the riving knife, blade guard, and fence fitted.
• Hold your material firmly against the table and fence throughout the cut.

This entire section has been modified so please read it in detail before attempting to crosscut This section outlines out to set up and make a cross cut. This is were you cut across the width of a piece of wood, going across the grain.

The table saw should never be your primary choice for crosscutting: you should only use the table saw for this task if your stock is too big to be cut on the mitre saw. You must always use the mitre gauge for crosscutting, and the stock should not make contact with the fence. The stock touching both the mitre gauge and the fence greatly increases the risk of kickback and thus of serious injury.

To set up for making a cross cut, you must:

• Inspect the machine.
• Ensure the work area is clear of trip-hazards and obstacles.
• Ensure the material exit area is clear of obstructions.
• Fit the mitre gauge into the rail on the table.
• Make sure the fence is extended out of the way of your stock.
• Adjust the blade height to ensure the gullets are just above the surface of your material. (See this video (60s))
• Check your material contains no nails or other hardware.
• Attach the blue cyclone extractor/shop vac to the port on the back of the saw.
• Put on your PPE (Eye, Ear and respiratory protection are required).
• Tell other people in the room that you are using the saw, and invite them to wear hearing protection.

When making a cross cut, you must:

• Place your wood onto the mitre gauge, and tightly pinch the wood to the gauge.
• Ensure your wood is not making contact with the fence
• Feed your material slowly through the blade. If you have to force it, or if you smell burning, stop and investigate.
• Never allow your hands to come close to the blade, or inline with the blade
• Never reach across the saw while it is running.
• Never walk away from the saw while it is running.
• Always shut down the machine before retrieving your material or offcuts.

After making a cross cut, you must:

• Switch off the saw.
• Wait for the blade to come to a complete halt before leaving the area, or collecting your materials.
• Clean up the area.
• Remove the mitre gauge and return it to its storage location.
• Put the padlock back on the machine.

Table saws can also be used for other cuts, such as cutting grooves and rebates.

If this is to be done, the blade guard must be replaced with the riving knife, which can be found on the back right of the table saw. This greatly increases the danger of using the table saw: you should try and avoid doing cuts of this nature if possible.

If you decide to make a cut such as this, you should be aware that this significantly increases the chance of kick back: you should always use two push sticks when performing rips cuts, and keep both hands on the mitre gauge if performing crosscuts.

If you are making these cuts then ensure you replace the guard and return the riving knife to its slot once you are done.

Under no circumstances should the saw ever be used without either the guard or riving knife

The lock knob to change the riving knife / blade guard is under the rear left of the table saw.

When changing the knife/guard undo the lock knob until you can’t undo it anymore (but not HARD!) then pull it to release the lock pins. Knife/guard should be easy to lift out at this point.

The lock pins are spring loaded so you need to keep pulling until you’ve removed the knife etc.

Do the reverse to install the knife/guard.

We strongly recommend that you also watch these videos before using the saw:

Setting the Blade height:

If you have successfully passed the induction but still do not feel confident using the saw by yourself, feel free to reach out to Matt_RT on the discourse forum for an in person induction.

This page is part 1 of the table saw self-induction. Once you have read, watched, and understood the information here, follow the link below to Part 2. This comprises a short online quiz that, if passed, will give you the current padlock code.

Quiz