User Manual: dwe7485.pdf

The machine uses our two-part self-induction system. Part 1 of the induction comprises the study materials below. Part 2 comprises an online test to demonstrate you have understood part 1.

Once you have studied the materials below, you can find Part 2 on the access control portal in the Hackspace. You can learn more about that here…

Once you successfully complete the part 2 test, your card will be automatically accredited for use with the saw and you can start using it straight away.

• A TABLE SAW IS OFTEN THE MOST DANGEROUS TOOL IN A WOODSHOP! It may look straightforward to use, but any deviation from correct procedure is can result in an extremely nasty accident.

• THE TABLE SAW IS NOT A GENERAL PURPOSE SAW! It is designed to make specific types of cuts, and should only be used in that way. Check if we have a more suitable tool before using the table saw. The table saw should always be your last option for making a cut.

• Wood dust is hazardous! You must always connect the table saw to the mobile extractor, and empty the extractor bin when it's full.

• The table saw is loud! You must wear ear protection, and offer it to those around you before using the saw.

This is our table saw:

The table saw is for cutting seasoned dimensional timber, or timber-based sheet materials such as ply or MDF.

It should only be used to cut materials that can be held firmly against the bed and the fence without risk of slipping during the cut. This means the materials must have regular flat sides.

You must never use the table saw for:

• Any other materials, such as plastic, resin, or metal.
• Irregularly-shaped pieces of timber (eg: tree branches, lathe blanks) that can't be held firmly against both the bed and fence.
• Fresh-cut, “green”, or unseasoned timber.
• Stuff that doesn't fit in the saw.

Table saws are designed for making rip cuts. A rip-cut is a cut along the length of a piece of timber (usually following the grain) guided by the fence. Rip Cutting is the standard usage for our saw, and covered in this induction.

It is also possible to use the table saw to make other types of cuts, usually via an appropriate jig or sledge. These types of usage are not covered in detail this induction. Please Note: You must never use the table saw to make 'freehand' cuts or curved cuts!

To safely make a rip cut it's vital that you set the saw up correctly. This means ensuring a riving knife is fitted (part of the blade guard and riving knife assembly), the fence is correctly positioned and locked for your cut, and the blade is set to the right height for your material. Taking these steps help prevent kickback, which is covered in detail further down this page.

Before making a rip cut you must:

• Set up the working area:
  • Inspect the machine for obvious defects or damage.
  • Ensure the working area is clear of trip-hazards and obstacles.
  • Ensure the outfeed area is clear of obstructions.
  • Connect the mobile dust extractor/cyclone to the port on the lower back of the machine.
  • Check if the extractor/cyclone is full, and empty it if needed.
  • Ensure the blade guard & riving knife assembly is securely in place.
• Set up the machine for your cut: Fence Position:
  • Release the rail locking lever (F)
  • Use the fence adjustment wheel (G) to position the fence.
  • Remember to lock the rail locking lever (F) again!
  • If your cut requires the fence to be set beyond the edge of the bed, flip the bed extension (E) over into it's lower position to provide support for the edge of your material.
• Set up the machine for your cut: Blade Height:
  • Use the blade height wheel (I) to set the height. You should ensuring that the blade gullets are just above the surface of your material (See this video (60s))
• Set up the machine for your cut: Blade Angle (if required):
  • Release the blade angle locking lever (H).
  • Move the blade height wheel (I) side to side to set the blade angle.
  • Remember to lock the blade angle locking leaver (H) again.
• Stay safe:
  • Put on hearing protection, and inviting others in the room to do the same.
  • Put on eye protection.
  • Tie back long hair, and remove any loose or dangly items (jewellery, baggy sleeves, hoody tassels, etc).

When making a rip cut you must:

• Use the mobile dust extractor/cyclone at all times.
• Hold your material firmly against the fence and firmly against the table throughout the cut.
• Feed your material slowly through the saw. If you smell burning, see smoke, or have to force your material, stop the saw and investigate.
• Wherever possible, use push sticks or push blocks instead of your hands to hold your material. Many gruesome table saw accidents would have been prevented this way.
• Never allow your hands to come anywhere close to the blade, or in line with the blade.
• Never reach across the saw while it is running.
• Never walk away from the saw while it is running.
• Never retrieve your material or waste from the saw while it is running.

Here is a good example of the correct usage of a push stick, a push block, the fence, and the bed extension:

After making a rip cut, you must:

• Switch off the saw before collecting your material or clearing up waste.
• Switch off the extractor.
• Clean up the area once the saw is off.
• Tap out of the machine to ensure others cannot use it without passing this induction.
• Return the push sticks to their correct locations.

Kickback is an incredibly dangerous and common phenomenon when using a table saw! Kickback occurs when the material is permitted to twist slightly, or lifts from the bed. The saw will suddenly grab and twist the material, then spit it back at the operator at very high speed. The operator's hand is frequently drawn into the spinning blade at the same time.

As part of this induction, you MUST watch the following video to fully understand the causes and dangers of kickback. (NB: There is no gore.)

To avoid kickback when rip cutting you must always:

• Have the riving knife & blade guard assembly fitted.
• Have the fence locked in the correct position for your cut.
• Have the blade height set correctly for the thickness of your material.
• Hold your material firmly against the fence and against the table at all times throughout the cut (Preferably with push sticks or push pads.)

It's possible to safely use the table saw to make other kinds of cut beyond rip-cutting. This involves using a sledge or jig which runs on the slots on the bed and holds the workpiece in place as it passes the blade. The details of these usages are not covered in detail this induction, however the following important points must be observed:

• Always check to see if there is another way to make the desired cut, for example using the mitre-saw or band-saw. The table saw should always be the machine of last resort for anything other than it's designed purpose of rip-cutting.
• Ensure the fence is well clear of your workpiece when using a sledge or jig. If a workpiece held in a sledge or jig catches on the fence, it is very likely to cause kickback.
• If your sledge or jig requires the removal of the blade guard, then you must swap the combined blade guard & riving knife assembly for the stand-alone riving knife. You must never run the saw without a riving knife of some kind fitted! See below for instructions on changing the guard/knife.
• If you do switch to the stand-alone riving knife, you must return the saw to it's normal state for the next user by swapping back to the blade guard & riving knife assembly.
• Remember: You must never use the table saw to make freehand or curved cuts!

A fairly straightforward alternative use of the table saw is to cut a rebate or channel. Essentially, this is a cut that only goes partway through the material. Rebate cutting is not covered in detail this induction, however the following important points must be observed:

• Always check to see if there is another way to make a rebate cut before using the table saw, for example using a router. The table saw should always be the machine of last resort for anything other than it's designed purpose of rip-cutting.
• You will need to remove the blade guard to make a rebate cut. This means you must swap the combined blade guard & riving knife assembly for the stand-alone riving knife. You must never run the saw without a riving knife of some kind fitted! See below for instructions on changing the guard/knife.
• Remember, without the blade guard fitted, the blade will be hidden from view inside your workpiece. You must pay particular attention to the positioning of your hands when cutting rebates, to insure you do not come into contact with the blade as it exits the back of your workpiece. If at all possible, use push sticks!

The table saw comes with a combined blade guard & riving knife assembly (B), and also a separate stand-alone riving knife (K), which can be used for cuts where the blade guard would get in the way (for example when using a sledge or cutting a rebate). One of these must always be in place when using the saw. Never use the table saw without a riving knife of some kind fitted!

To change between the two:

• Locate the locking knob, which is inside the saw under the bed on the left hand side.
• Unscrew the knob anticlockwise as far as it will easily go (no need to force it).
• Pull on the knob and simultaneously lift the knife/guard up out of its slot.
• Pull on the knob again while slotting the other knife/guard into the slot.
• Screw the knob back in clockwise as far as it will easily ago (again no need to force it).
• Double-check that knife you have fitted is perfectly in line with the sawblade.

Make sure you always leave the saw in it's default state when you've finished using it: With the combination Blade Guard & Riving Knife Assembly fitted ready for rip-cutting.

The stand-alone knife blade should be kept clipped to right-hand side of the saw body.

We strongly recommend that you also watch this video ¹⁾ before using the saw:

See manual for instructions for changing the blade.

The replacement blade is 210mm by 30mm (and about 2.4mm kerf)

Fancy option: https://www.screwfix.com/p/freud-wood-circular-saw-blade-210mm-x-30mm-48t/173vv

Standard option: https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-craftpro-csb-21048-wood-circular-saw-blade-210mm-x-30mm-48t/542xg and from Toolstation: Trend Craft Circular Saw Blade 210 x 48T x 30mm CSB/21048|