Bandsaw - Record Power BS300E

Induction Required

This equipment requires an induction prior to use. For your own safety and to avoid damage to the equipment do not attempt to use it until you have been inducted.

Laceration

This equipment is hazardous to the user or those around them, take care during use.

PPE Required

This equipment requires the use of eye protection / hearing protection / respiratory protection during use.

Risk assessment

Nothing here yet.

User manual

Location:Workshop
Ownership:Hackspace
Induction:Required - in person

Induction Manual

  • Be aware of other people around you. Don't bump into them and be respectful of usage space around the equipment.
  • Only cut things along the bed of the machine. This is not a scroll saw / CNC machine. Things could go wrong if the work piece is turned significantly while cutting it. Gentle curves are possible but be extra careful.
  • Tie long hair back.
  • Don't wear loose clothing that might catch on any moving part.
  • If something doesn't look right or the bandsaw looks damaged:
    1. Check the maintenance section below.
    2. If the maintenance section does not cover the issue, and feel confident investigating and potentially repairing the issue, do so.
    3. If there is an issue that requires work that is not covered by the maintenance section below, report it on the forum and if needed, unplug the machine and place a sign on it saying it is out of action. Include your name, the date, and time on this sign.

Use the following recommended safety equipment for protection while using this machine:

  • Safety goggles for eye protection
  • Ear defenders for ear protection
  • Dust masks for prevention of inhalation of particulate matter
  • Do not wear gloves while using the bandsaw. They should only be used when Changing the bandsaw blade.
  • The Hackspace provides a single bandsaw blade size. This policy is intended to make the bandsaw more reliable, and will be reviewed at the Q2 2024 members meeting.
  • You can use a blade of your own choosing when you visit the hackspace, but you MUST return the original blade back in to a good condition (cutting well and true) before leaving - leave at least 10 minutes to do this. See Changing the bandsaw blade and the Induction Manual (until changed and updated)
  • The spares are located on the wall besides the bandsaw.
  • If a bandsaw blade becomes blunt, replace with a spare from the wall. Do not use the spares if the blade is still sharp - if it's not cutting well, see the section on Not cutting straight.
  • If there are no more spares, buy a replacement(s) and request reimbursement via the forum (Or request a replacement be bought on the forum consumables thread).
  • The bandsaw takes blades 93-1/4 inch = 2368.55mm
  • A typical order if all the blades are knackered would be 2no. 6 TPI at 3/8 inch for general use, 1no. x 6 TPI at 1/4 inch for fine work and 1no. 3 TPI at 3/4 inch for cross cutting.
  • http://www.Tuffsaws.co.uk can supply the blades.

Preparation on arrival to the wood shop

  • Check that there are no kinks or twists in the bandsaw blade.
  • Make sure the teeth are pointing down in the visible area of the blade itself. If the teeth are going upwards, the blade has been installed incorrectly and won't cut the work piece. It can also be dangerous due to the piece being moved unpredictably. Insert Picture
  • Check that the bearings are adjusted correctly and tightened. They should be close to but not touching the blade.
  • Check that the blade tension is correct for the blade. This can be adjusted with the knob on top of the bandsaw.
  • Check that the blade tracking is set correctly - the gullet of the teeth should be at the centre of the wheel. This can be adjusted with the knob at the back of the bandsaw.
  • Align the fence to the table / blade. Note that the fence is attached to the rail at the front with two screws. The fence needs to be aligned to the blade/table and then secured with these screws. So, make sure that the fence is positioned correctly and securely attached.

Preparation for each cut

  • Loosen the guard knob and raise or lower the guard to the height of the work piece. Allow about 1 cm (or less) as tolerance and so that you can actually move the wood through the saw. Re-tighten the knob so that the guard no longer moves.
  • Move the fence to the desired width. There are measurements on the table to give relevant widths. If you need to change the rotation of the fence for lower clearance, ensure you realign the fence to the blade (further up the page).
  • Adjust the gates on the Dust Extractor so that there is a direct path to the bandsaw. Turn it on.
  • Ensure you have enough outfeed space for your work piece. Insert Picture. If there is not enough space, move the bandsaw.

Cutting

  1. Put work piece onto the table.
  2. Never put your hands on the work piece directly in line with the blade. Hold the piece by the edge furthest from the fence and apply forward pressure (to move the piece to the blade) and light lateral pressure against the fence (to keep the piece straight on to the blade). If you are using smaller pieces, use a push stick so that you're not sacrificing your fingers - only a piece of scrap wood.
  3. Once the piece is in position but not touching the blade, turn on the machine.
  4. Slowly push the piece forwards. Let the blade do the cutting, not pressure from you. If it's not cutting well, the blade might need to be replaced.
  5. Check that the blade is not getting too close to your fingers and use the push stick if it is.
  6. Move the piece through the machine. Be aware that the piece may kick up at the end of the cut.
  7. Turn off machine.
  8. Turn off dust extractor (unless someone else is using it)
  9. Collect your newly cut pieces.
  10. Repeat as necessary.

Problems while cutting

  1. Stop the machine first
  2. Wait until the blade has stopped moving.
  3. Extract the problematic work piece.
  4. If there are burn marks on the piece (of wood), it implies that the blade is getting (or is) blunt and the blade should be changed.
  5. If the piece is stuck, there might be a few problems:
    • If the piece is stuck at an angle - Keep light pressure of the work piece against the fence to ensure a straight cut.
    • If the piece is stuck but straight on, the blade might be too dull - replace the blade.

Cleaning up

  • Put all safety equipment back.
  • Brush the platform to remove excess material. Sweep area around the band saw and bin the rubbish.

Not Cutting Straight

There are a whole host of things that could cause the blade to not cut straight:

  • Blade tracking. The teeth of the blade should be in line with the middle of the top wheel to ensure proper cutting. This may flatten the “set” of the teeth (the slight wiggle from side to side), which is needed to clear space for the blade.
  • Blade tension. If this is too high or too low for the blade size in use, it can cause issues.
  • Blade sharpness, kinks, twists, and the set of the teeth.
  • The guide bearings. These should be as close as possible to the blade without touching it when the bandsaw is off. There are 3 above and 3 below the table. They need to be adjusted every time the blade is changed, every time tracking is adjusted, and should be checked every time you set up for a cut.
  • the alignment of the table fence.
  • the height of the blade guide above the workpiece. This should be as close as possible to the piece without obstructing your cut, and it needs to be locked down.

Changing the bandsaw blade

How to unfold and fold the blade.

  1. Find suitable gloves to protect your hands. Even blunt blades can cause damage.
  2. Loosen the knob at the top right on the front of the bandsaw.
  3. Open the panel - might need encouragement by pulling the panel underneath the work surface.
  4. Loosen the pulley wheel which has the blade around it by loosening the vertical knob at the very top of the machine. It will take quite some time.
  5. Remove the small, square guard from the table.
  6. Pull the blade off of the pulleys and move the blade out of the guide (just under the work surface and can be seen when the small, square guard is removed).
  7. Rotate the blade loop 90° towards you.
  8. Ease the blade past the black metal guard.
  9. Rotate the blade loop 90° towards you again so that the blade is facing away from you if you're standing at the front of the machine.
  10. Remove the blade from the hole in the work surface.
  11. “Fold” up the blade by using the foot and twisting method shown in the induction.
  12. Use a tie to stop the old blade from expanding again.
  13. Brush out dust / excess material while you have access to most of the machine without a blade in the way.
  14. Acquire new / alternative blade.
  15. “Uncoil” the new blade so that it has only one loop, not the three loops that it comes packaged in.
  16. Put the new blade into the machine by reversing steps 6 through 10, ensuring the teeth are pointing down on the side you insert into the table bit. You are likely to need help to get the blade around the pulleys and through the guides all at the same time.
  17. Begin tightening the pulleys

The below steps needed to finish replacing the blade are also covered under Preparation on arrival to the wood shop.

  1. Tighten the pulleys until there is enough tension (as described in the induction).
  2. Manually turn the top pulley to ensure proper alignment of the blade with respect to the pulleys, i.e. the blade stays on the middle of the pulley. If it shifts forwards or backwards with respect to the pulley, adjust the angle of pulley wheel by turning the small black knob on the back of the machine as appropriate. If three complete revolutions can be made and the blade stays in the center of the pulley wheel, then it is aligned properly.
  3. Check the carbon brushes to make sure the blade doesn't vibrate too much.
    • Use a small Allen key (3mm) to release the hold of the carbon brush near to the cutting area and within the guide above the cutting surface.
    • Remove the brush and check for wear. It should be flat against the blade and not have a significant curve.
    • Re-install the brush. It should just be touching the blade with only the slightest pressure against it - It's meant to align the blade not apply a braking force.
    • Repeat with the brush on the other side.
    • Repeat two more times with the brushes in the alignment guide underneath the platform.
    • Ensure the brushes are held in place properly by tightening the Allen bolts (finger tight).
  4. Close panel.
  5. Secure panel by screwing in the knob at the top right.

Preparation on arrival to the wood shop

  • Check that there are no kinks or twists in the bandsaw blade.
  • Make sure the teeth are pointing down in the visible area of the blade itself. If the teeth are going upwards, the blade has been installed incorrectly and won't cut the work piece. It can also be dangerous due to the piece being moved unpredictably. Insert Picture
  • Check that the bearings are adjusted correctly and tightened. They should be close to but not touching the blade.

  • Check that the blade tension is correct for the blade. This can be adjusted with the knob on top of the bandsaw. The guide at the back of the bandsaw tells you when tension is set correctly. You match the red indicator to the line that states the saw size (1/2“ currently).

  • Check that the blade tracking is set correctly. This is done with the clearly labelled knob on the back of the bandsaw. The gullet of the teeth should be at the centre of the wheel. Turning clockwise tilts the top wheel of the bandsaw backwards, moving the blade backwards. The blade will only move after the wheels have been rotated a little, so test by changing the tracking, rotating the wheels by hand, then checking again. If the blade has not moved forwards or backwards after three full rotations of the wheels, then it is stable.

  • Align the fence to the table. Note that the fence is attached to the rail at the front with two screws. The fence needs to be aligned to the blade/table and then secured with these screws. So, make sure that the fence is positioned correctly and securely attached. The below images how two ways to check alignment, one using the engineers square from the metal shop, and one by eye against the tracks in the table.

  • Align the the table to the blade. The table can be tilted to allow angled cuts, and may not have been returned to dead flat. Use the engineers square from the metal shop to confirm that the table is dead square to the blade. The handle unlocks the tilting, while the knob *should* tilt the table. This can often be stiff.

Preparation for each cut

  • Loosen the guard knob and raise or lower the guard to the height of the work piece. Allow about 1 cm (or less) as tolerance and so that you can actually move the wood through the saw. Re-tighten the knob so that the guard no longer moves. The closer the guard is to the workpiece, the less deflection is possible in the blade during your cut, and therefore the straighter the cut will be.

  • Tilt the table, if needed. See above for details. Please return to dead flat after you have done so.
  • Move the fence to the desired width. There are measurements on the table to give relevant widths. If you need to change the rotation of the fence for lower clearance, ensure you realign the fence to the blade (further up the page). Alternatively, if you are using the angle tray sled thing, move the fence entirely out of the way.

  • Adjust the gates on the Dust Extractor so that there is a direct path to the bandsaw. Turn it on.
  • Ensure you have enough outfeed space for your work piece. If there is not enough space, move the bandsaw.

Changing wood speed

Cutting

  1. Put work piece onto the table.
  2. Never put your hands on the work piece directly in line with the blade. Hold the piece by the edge furthest from the fence and apply forward pressure (to move the piece to the blade) and light lateral pressure against the fence (to keep the piece straight on to the blade). If you are using smaller pieces, use a push stick so that you're not sacrificing your fingers - only a piece of scrap wood.
  3. Once the piece is in position but not touching the blade, turn on the machine.
  4. Slowly push the piece forwards. Let the blade do the cutting, not pressure from you. If it's not cutting well, the blade might need to be replaced.
  5. Check that the blade is not getting too close to your fingers and use the push stick if it is.
  6. Move the piece through the machine. Be aware that the piece may kick up at the end of the cut.
  7. Turn off machine.
  8. Turn off dust extractor (unless someone else is using it)
  9. Collect your newly cut pieces.
  10. Repeat as necessary.

Problems while cutting

  1. Stop the machine first
  2. Wait until the blade has stopped moving.
  3. Extract the problematic work piece.
  4. If there are burn marks on the piece (of wood), it implies that the blade is getting (or is) blunt and the blade should be changed.
  5. If the piece is stuck, there might be a few problems:
    • If the piece is stuck at an angle - Keep light pressure of the work piece against the fence to ensure a straight cut.
    • If the piece is stuck but straight on, the blade might be too dull - replace the blade.

Cleaning up

  • Put all safety equipment back.
  • Brush the platform to remove excess material. Sweep area around the band saw and bin the rubbish.
  • equipment/woodshop/bandsaw
  • Last modified: 3 months ago
  • by nough