Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- equipment:woodshop:woodcnc [2024/02/20 15:52] – fraserh
+++ equipment:woodshop:woodcnc [2026/03/04 20:58] (current) – dave
@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 <callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true">This equipment requires the use of eye protection / hearing protection / respiratory protection during use.</callout>
-===== Wood CNC overview =====
+====Cutting Items====
-==== Common terms explained ====
+  * Hard wood
+  * Soft wood
+  * MDF
+  * Plywood
+  * Acrylic
+  * Delryn
-Most of the information below is taken from a direct transcript of a series of videos made by Carbide3D, the manufacturer of the Shapeoko CNC, with some minor alterations to match our particular combination of machine, router and accessories. There are links at the bottom of the page to the original videos and we would recommend you take the time to watch these though the induction quiz is just based on the transcribed text on this page.
+====Banned Items====
+  * Metal
-\\
+====== Shapeoko 3 XL – Common CNC Terms ======
-===CNC===
+Most definitions here are adapted from Carbide3D’s video series, with small changes for our machine and accessories.\\
-Computer Numerical Control is a manufacturing method that automates the control, movement and precision of machine tools through the use of preprogramed computer software, which is embedded inside the tools. The laser cutter, 3D printers, Metal Mill, PCB mill and vinyl cutter are all examples of CNC machines.
+**Tip:** These are the basics you’ll need for your induction quiz. Links to the original videos are at the bottom if you want to go deeper.
-\\
+===== Core Concepts =====
-===CAD===
+**CNC** – //Computer Numerical Control//\\
+A computer-controlled machine that moves a cutting tool with high precision. Our laser cutter, 3D printers, and vinyl cutter are also CNC machines.
-CAD software, Computer Aided Design. This is the entry point to getting your machine to make something. First design the item in this software, you create the edges and the features of your item. The CAD software also generates the instructions for your machine to follow. These instructions are a series of coordinates and commands which tell the machine where to be, where to go and how fast to move. Our recommendation is you use Carbide Create, this is the CAD software available form Carbide3D as its designed for beginners and if user friendly. There is a free version and a pro version, all the demonstrations will be shown using the free software that should be able to do most of the kinds of jobs this CNC is designed to do. For the more experienced user Fusion360 can be used with this CNC though it has yet to be tested and there may be slight differences in the workflow.
+**CAD** – //Computer-Aided Design//\\
+Software used to design your part. You draw shapes, add features, and prepare them for cutting.
+  * **We use:** Carbide Create (free version is fine)
+  * **Why it matters:** This is where you create the geometry of your project.
-\\
+**CAM** – //Computer-Aided Manufacturing//\\
+Software that converts your CAD design into movement instructions for the CNC.
+  * **We use:** Carbide Motion (pre-installed on the workshop Raspberry Pi)
+  * **Why it matters:** This is the “translator” between your design and the machine.
-===CAM===
+**G-code**
+The text-based “language” CNC machines read. Generated automatically by CAD/CAM software. You don’t need to write it manually.
-CAM software, Computer Aided Manufacturing, is the part of the software that moves your machine according to those instructions given to it from the CAD software. It reads out the coordinates and feeds those to the CNC machine. This is the computer and the numeric parts of the machine. A series of coordinates are being fed into the machine on a consistent basis. The software we are using is Carbide Motion and it is already loaded and configured on the Raspberry PI.
+===== Machine Movement =====
-\\
+**Axes**
+  * **X:** Left ↔ Right
+  * **Y:** Front ↔ Back
+  * **Z:** Up ↔ Down
+//Tip: Y has the “Y rails” and Z is the vertical axis — that leaves X as side-to-side.//
-===G Code===
+**Home Position** – The fixed point the machine returns to after startup.\\
-The is the language the CNC speaks, this is just a fancy word for the coordinates and commands that the Cam software spits out. This code is generated automatically by the CAD software. You do not need to write any code yourself.
+**Work Zero** – Your chosen starting point for a specific job (usually a corner or centre of the stock).
-\\
+===== Design Files =====
-===X, Y and Z===
+**Vector Graphics**\\
-These are the directions or reference for the movement of the machine. X Is side to side, Y is backward and forward, Z is up and down. One easy way to remember the directions is that there are 'Y rails' and a 'Z axis' on the machine physically. Therefore, the only thing left. Is X side to side.
+Drawings made of lines and points (e.g., SVG files). Ideal for CNC because the machine can follow their coordinates exactly.
-\\
+**Toolpaths**\\
+The routes your cutter will follow. Defined in CAD, turned into G-code in CAM.
-===Vector Graphics===
+===== Materials & Workholding =====
-Vector graphics, such as images saved in a SVG format, consist of lines and nodes, sometimes called points. These lines and nodes define the boundaries of any shape and art that you want to put in the computer. The information in the vector graphic allows the machine to follow the coordinates and create your art.
-\\
+**Stock** – The material you’re cutting.\\
+**Spoilboard** – A sacrificial board under the stock to protect the machine.\\
+**Workholding** – Clamps or other methods to secure your stock so it doesn’t move.
-===Tool Paths===
+===== Cutting Parameters =====
-Tool paths are the paths created by you and the CAD software. You'll define how a tool is used and where it is going to go along a tool path. This is the go between or messenger for the CAD to CAM. Your tool pathing choices are converted into coordinates for the Cam software to spit out to the machine.  Coordinates along with the actual tools it needs.
-\\
+**Feed Rate** – How fast the cutter moves through the material (X/Y).\\
+**Plunge Rate** – How fast the cutter moves down into the material (Z).\\
+**Spindle Speed** – How fast the bit spins (RPM), adjusted on the router dial.\\
-===Stock===
+//Why it matters:// These three settings determine cut quality and safety. Carbide Create has safe starting values for common materials.
-The stock is the material that you put in the machine to be cut.
-\\
+===== Tools & Cutters =====
-===Feeds and Speeds===
+**End Mill / Bit** – The cutting tool.
-Feed rate is the rate at which your end mill is being pushed through the material. This is generally in X & Y, so forward and backward, side to side. The Z or the plunge rate is something you also see and that is how fast it is being put into the material in a vertical fashion.
+  * **Flat End Mill** – Flat tip, general-purpose cutting.
+  * **Ball End Mill** – Rounded tip, for 3D contours and smooth finishes.
+  * **V-Cutter** – Angled tip, ideal for engraving and sign work.
+  * **Fly Cutter** – Large flat cutter for surfacing spoilboards or material tops.
-The speed is the spin rate generated by your router for the Shapeoko you'll adjust the dial on top of the router.
+**Flutes** – The cutting edges on a bit. More flutes = smoother cut, fewer flutes = faster removal.
-These two factors, in concert with your end mill cut and shape your stock to produce your item. Feeds and speeds can be used generally or quite specifically.  The carbide 3D software comes preloaded with all the feeds and speeds you need to begin. This gives you the starting points you need to cut a wide variety of materials with a selection of different end mills.
+**Upcut / Downcut** – Direction of flute spiral:
+  * **Upcut:** Pulls chips up and away (better chip removal, but can lift stock).
+  * **Downcut:** Pushes chips down (better surface finish, but can trap chips).
-\\
+**Shank size** – the size of the diameter of the solid part of the bit, two sizes are currently supported by our router:
+  * **1/8** - 1/8 inch (3.175mm).
+  * **1/4** - 1/4 inch (6.35mm).
-===Types of Tools===
+----
-Cutters, end mills or bits.
-End mills have a varying number of flutes or cutting and evacuation surfaces. These flutes travel in an upward or downward spiral on the shaft of the cutter.
-The flat end mill is one that finishes in a completely flat surface designed to give you a flat bottom cut in your stock. These are the workhorses of CNC 1/4 and 1/8 will get you started on your first projects.
+===== Machining Types =====
-The ball end mill finish in a ball whose nose radius is equal to 1/2 the diameter of the tool. This is a fancy way to say that the ball at the end is the same diameter as the end mill. The ball nose is used for a variety of milling and slotting operations. You'll see it frequently in 3D finishing and other finishing passes. It yields a smoother and less abrupt line between machine passes.
+**2D Machining** – Cutting shapes at a constant depth.\\
+**2.5D Machining** – Multiple depths, but cutting one flat layer at a time (e.g., pockets + cutouts).\\
+**3D Machining** – Machine moves in X, Y, and Z simultaneously to create complex curves.\\
-V Cutters/Engravers look like upside down triangles. These cutters produce a progressively wider cut as the end mill is pushed deeper into the material. They come in a variety of angles the most common are 90 and 60. In the hobbyist world, these are primarily used for letters and signs using the Vcarve tool pathing. This yields terrific detail with just the point and a totally unique look by utilising multiple depths throughout your texture lettering. Once you know about these cutters, you'll start to see items everywhere which have been created with the V cutter.
+===== Safety =====
-Fly cutters. These are used for face milling material, flattening the waste board of your machine, or flattening the top of your material. Face milling is different than end milling in that you are only cutting with the bottom of the tool and never the. Side of the tool. Fly cutters can have multiple cutting blades on the bottom surface of the tool, but unlike a traditional end mill, do not contain those flutes, those spiral grooves up the sides of the end mill. Fly cutters contain different numbers of cutting tips from one on up use of a fly cutter typically results in excellent surface finish.
+**Emergency Stop (E-stop)** – Red button to immediately stop the machine.\\
+**PPE** – Safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask.\\
+**Dust Collection** – Removes chips and dust from the work area.
-Up, cut and down cut, coming back to the topic of flutes, upcut or downcut refers to the direction of the flutes, the direction of the flutes creates a few basic effects. First, any chips or debris travelling off the cutter. Will be forced either upward or downward. Upward will have them automatically removed from the piece you are cutting downward will force those pieces towards the bottom of your stock. Second, up cut end mills pull at your part as they spin, they will put pulling force on your stock and therefore try and pry loose your material and your work holding better beyond point. Down cut, end mills push downward as they spin. This creates less stress on your stock material, but also keeps chips and debris inside your work area with the potential for the end mill to encounter not only the material being cut, the new material being cut, but also the previously cut chips of that material. This isn't a big deal with wood and most plastics.
+===== More Info =====
+  * [[https://carbide3d.com/hub/courses/getting-started-cnc/|Carbide3D Getting Started with CNC]] - A text and video series that will give you a simple introduction to the world of CNC.
+  * [[https://carbide3d.com/hub/courses/jumpstart/|Carbide3D Jumpstart course]] - A text and video series that takes you through designing and making several projects.
+  * [[https://www.youtube.com/carbide3d|Carbide 3D YouTube Page]] - Contains a large number of helpful videos with guides and tips.
-There are lots of other specialty end mills that you may come across or choose to experiment with as you progress in CNC But the above will take you 95% of the way to making nearly anything.
-\\
+===== Powering up the machine =====
-===Types of Machining===
+  * Remove the padlock and turn the isolator to power on the machine, the enclosure lights should turn on.\\
+  * Is the Raspberry Pi isn't already running press the silver button to boot it up.\\
+  * Rotate the emergency stop button clockwise to reset it if required.\\
+  * Check that the belts look in good condition, no cuts of frays.\\
+  * Check that there is no thick dust build up on top of the big silver gantry's.
+  * Check that there is nothing left loose inside the enclosure that could jam the movement of the router.
-D, 2.5D and 3D machining. These are three types of machining you will hear referenced.
+===== Starting the software and initialising the machine =====
-D and 2.5 are nearly the same thing. 2D refers to the machine running in the X, side to side, and the Y, front to back, directions only. This assumes you are cutting through or dragging along your material at the same depth the entire time. This is very similar to a vinyl cutter where you have the Y running by pulling the vinyl in and out of the machine and your X going across with a knife, and that knife is stable. It's not moving up and down.
+  * Start Carbide Motion by pressing the raspberry button in the top left -> Office -> Carbide Motion\\
+  * Press the "Connect to cutter" button\\
+  * Press on "Initialise Machine". The router will move to the rear rightmost point first and will then move to the front allowing you to install the probe pin or cutting bit.\\
-.5D machining indicates that the features of the item are being created at different depths depending upon the feature. Vectors can be used as accent features, not just as cutouts, a pocket inside an item which was later cut out would be indicative of 2.5D machining.
+===== Installing probe pin =====
-D tool paths are created off 3D models depending upon the software you're using, you'll be able to see the 3D model of your design part, that part and your inputting of tool paths will create situations where the machine is moving in all three axis at once.
+The first step is to install the correct collet for the size of the bit you’ll be using. To change the collet, use a 17 mm spanner to loosen the collet nut on the bottom of the router. Press and hold the yellow spindle lock button (on the lower right of the router) to stop the shaft from spinning. Remove the collet nut and old collet together, then fit the new collet and collet nut using the same process in reverse.
-===== Instructions =====
+Choose the probe pin that matches the size of the collet you’ve just fitted. The probe pins are straight metal rods. Insert the pin into the collet and tighten the nut by hand. Use the measuring guide to check the pin isn’t sticking out too far. Once correct, hold the spindle lock and tighten the nut with the 17 mm spanner.
-\\
+===== Clamping down stock =====
-=== Ground Rules ===
+In Carbide Motion press the Jog button to enter the Jog Screen. You can use the buttons on the screen or the pendant to move the router around.
-  * All users must complete an induction prior to using the machine.
-  * No metal materials, this CNC is just for use with wood and suitable plastics.
-  * Don't try and bypass the safety interlocks. They are there to protect you and the machine.
-  * Wear eye protection when the door is open. End mills can shatter if crashed.
-  * Wear hearing protection and offer hearing protection to others in the room.
-  * Keep fingers away from moving parts.
-  * Tidy up afterwards. Vacuum up your dust and wipe down any dirty surfaces.
-\\
+Place your stock on the spoilboard so it’s aligned with the grid. The spoilboard has threaded holes spaced 100 mm apart, and the grid lines are aligned with the machine’s X and Y motion. This makes it easy to square your stock with the router’s movement.
+Use the small stop blocks on one side to position the stock — each block has two smooth sides and two with small serrations. The serrated sides give better grip but can leave small marks on the stock.
+Use the Crush-It clamps on the opposite side to hold the stock securely. Each clamp has replaceable front jaws (smooth or serrated) for different materials. Loosen, but don’t remove, the front screw on the clamp. Position the clamp tight against the stock and bolt it down. Then tighten the front screw to push the clamp face firmly against the stock.
+Make sure the clamps don’t block the toolpath and use bolts of the correct length — too long and they can bottom out in the threaded holes. Tighten evenly so the stock sits flat and secure.
+====Walkthrough====
+Turn on isolator and boot raspberry PI.
-===Creating a design in Carbide Create===
+Turn on red emergency button if needed
-At the time of writing the latest version of Carbide Create is V7 build 764.
-The is just a basic How-To to get you started. There are links at the bottom the the page to a series of videos from Carbide 3D as well as their full written manual, The manual is for a slightly older version but most of the important parts are the same.
+Start Carbide Motion by clicking the raspberry button in the top left -> Office -> Carbide Motion
-When you first open Carbide Create you will be presented with the design screen. This is where you create/import your design before setting up the toolpaths for the machine to cut. The white grid is your workspace and there are several button on the left hand side you can use for changing settings or drawing vectors.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:1_office_carbide_motion.png?400|}}
-Hovering you mouse over any of the buttons brings up a tooltip with a brief description of what it does.
+Click the connect to cutter button
-The first step is to your stock and machine settings.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:2_connect_to_cutter.png?400|}}
-Click on the settings icon.
+Give the CNC a visual check to make sure everything looks OK
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_mainscreen_settingsbutton.jpg?direct|}}
+Click initialise machine and the spindle moves forward
-This brings up the 'Job Setup' box.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:3_initialise_machine.png?400|}}
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_jobsetup.jpg?direct|}}
+Remove dust shoe using clip on right and using the 17mm spanner and the yellow locking button on the side of the router fit the probe pin which is the same size as your bit bearing in mind you might have to change between the 1/8 and ¼ collet.
-Enter the width and height of your material(stock). Once applied this will also update the grid on the design screen to match.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:4_fit_probe_pin.jpg?400|}}
-Enter the stock thickness, if you are cutting all the way through it then it's very important to get this correct. The 'Zero Height' dropdown has two options, Top of Bottom. This corresponds to where you set the zero point on the machine (more on this later). The default is Top.
+In Carbide Create press the Jog button in the top menu and using either the on screen pad or the pendant, move the router to the back of the enclosure.
-The Toolpath Zero drop down allows you to select where in relation to your design you are going to set the zero point on the machine. This might sound complicated but it should become clear when we cover setting the workspace zero point on the machine. The default is Lower-Left.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:5_jog.png?400|}}
-Under the 'Job' section select the material type you are working with, please note that even though Aluminium is an option metal is not permitted to be cut on this machine. Machine should be set to Shapeoko 3. Retract Height is the height the cutting bit will lift up above the stock when moving from one position to another, the default of 5mm is normally fine. The 'Units' dropdown allows you to change between millimetres and inches for your measurements and grid layout.
+Clamp stock to bed making sure it doesn’t move
-Once you have finished click 'Ok'. You should see that the white grid has changed to match the stock dimensions you entered.
+Move the router into the bottom left corner, attach the probe magnet and touch the probe to the probe plate and you should see a red light.
-Now you can use the 'Crete Vector' buttons to make basic designs.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:6_check_probe.jpg?400|}}
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_createvector.jpg?direct|}}
+Put the probe plate tight to the bottom left of your stock and using the jog screen or the pendant move the probe into the circle in the probe plate.
-For this example we are going to draw a square 150mm X 150mm which will be the outer line of our design.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:7_probe.png?400|}}
-Click on the create rectangle tool, click once on the grid to select the centre of the rectangle then move your cursor to set the size of the rectangle and click again to finish. You don't have to worry about getting the square the correct size or in the correct place when drawing it as these can be easily changed later.
+In Carbide Motion click Probe -> corner -> Begin Probe
-With the rectangle drawn and selected you will then see more options in the toolbar on the left.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:8_corner.png?400|}}
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:9_begin_probe.png?400|}}
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_shapeparam.jpg?direct|}}
+Remove magnet and probe plate when it asks you to remove ground clip.
-In the 'Parameters' section you can specify the physical size as well as specific parameters for a particular shape, like the corner style and radius for a rectangle.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:10_remove_magnet.jpg?400|}}
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:11_bit_setter.jpg?400|}}
-The 'Transform' section has several tools to like move, scale, rotate and mirror. I want the square to be positioned in the lower corner but spaced away from the edge slightly. Selecting the 'Move' option gives me the following parameters.
+Make sure you are clear from the CNC as the head will move then you click OK.
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_move.jpg?direct|}}
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:12_bit_zero_ok.png?400|}}
-The Anchor point selection allows you to choose what point on the shape to use for the measurements. The Position shows the location of the selected point in relation to the bottom left corner. X is how far the shape is away left to right and Y is the distance bottom to top. By selecting the anchor point in the lower left and specifying 10mm in both the X and Y boxes the square is moved 10mm away from both the lower and left edge of my stock.
+Go back to run menu
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_mainscreen_square.jpg?direct|}}
+Plug in USB stick and click cancel to the popup.
-For the sake of simplicity I will not be covering any of the other 'Transform' tools, watch the video tutorials or read the manual of you want to know more about these options.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:13_usb_cancel.png?400|}}
-In the 'Edit' section there are some more tools, the only one we will cover now is the Edit Tabs option.
+Click the load new file button and navigate to computer -> / -> media -> cncuser -> your USB drive and confirm from description that you have loaded the correct file, there are some preview tabs to see what is going to be cut, when you're happy press Done.
-If you are cutting a part out from a larger piece of stock that it clamped in place it is important that your part doesn't become separated from the rest of your stock. If I were just to cut out that 150x150mm square entirely it would become loose inside the machine possible moving and jamming the bit. This could result in the bit breaking and/or the workpiece being catapulted into the air.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:14_load_file.png?400|}}
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:15_open_file.png?400|}}
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:16_done.png?400|}}
-The easiest way to ensure a part you want to fully cut out doesn't become loose is to tell the machine to leave it attached by a few small tabs. These tabs can then be manually cut and sanded flat once the CNC job is complete. There are other ways of clamping that mitigate this issue, like double sided tape, but this How-To is assuming you are using the supplied clamping kit.
+press start job.
-Selecting the 'Edit Tabs' option will click anywhere along a vector line to place a tab, you can also click the 'Clear all tabs' button to delete all the tabs. I will click roughly on the midpoint of each line of the square to add a tab, we will specify the physical sizes in a later step.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:17_start_job.png?400|}}
-Tabs added to the square.
+Then press start on next screen
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_mainscreen_tabs.jpg?direct|}}
+Spindle will move to front right and the screen will ask you to fit your first bit, fit bit, make sure bit doesn’t stick out lower than the bitsetter measurer. you might need to adjust height of dust shoe.
-===Generating toolpaths in Carbide Create===
+Fit the dust shoe, close doors and press resume.
-===Powering up machine===
-===Homing===
-===Clamping stock===
-===Installing bit===
-===Setting workspace coordinates and probing===
-===Loading, Checking and Running the Gcode Toolpath===
-===Cleaning Up===
-===== External links =====
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:19_fit_dust_shoe.jpg?400|}}
-=== Carbide 3D video guide on using Carbide Create ===
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:18_tool_change.png?400|}}
-https://my.carbide3d.com/#Design_with_Carbide_Create
-Video tutorials.
+Spindle will spin up and there will be a message to set the speed dial. If the dial is correct just hit resume, if you need to change it open the door, the spindle will stop, set the speed, close the door and hit resume
-Cut Rocket
-YouTube
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:20_spindle.jpg?400|}}
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:21_resume.png?400|}}
+The first job will start and start cutting.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:wood22_running_job.png?400|}}
+Opening the doors whilst cutting pauses the job, you can close the doors and press start to resume where you left off.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:23_release_freehold.png?400|}}
+Hitting the Estop kills power to the controller and spindle.
+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:5_jog.png?400|}}