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equipment:woodshop:woodcnc [2024/02/20 15:52] – fraserhequipment:woodshop:woodcnc [2026/09/11 10:22] (current) – fraserh
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-====== Wood CNC - Shapeoko 3 XL -Not yet commissioned====== +======Wood CNC - Shapeoko 3 XL ======
-===== Page under construction ===== +
-*add picture here+
  
 <callout title="Induction Required" type="danger" icon="true">This equipment requires an induction prior to use. For your own safety and to avoid damage to the equipment do not attempt to use it until you have been inducted.</callout> <callout title="Induction Required" type="danger" icon="true">This equipment requires an induction prior to use. For your own safety and to avoid damage to the equipment do not attempt to use it until you have been inducted.</callout>
Line 7: Line 5:
 <callout title="Crush and flying debris Hazard" type="warning" icon="true">Keep fingers away from moving parts. Risk of flying debris (e.g. tool crash).</callout> <callout title="Crush and flying debris Hazard" type="warning" icon="true">Keep fingers away from moving parts. Risk of flying debris (e.g. tool crash).</callout>
  
-<callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true">This equipment requires the use of eye protection / hearing protection / respiratory protection during use.</callout>+<callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true">This equipment requires the use of hearing protection during use, and finger protection when changing bits</callout>
  
-===== Wood CNC overview ===== 
-==== Common terms explained ==== 
  
-Most of the information below is taken from a direct transcript of a series of videos made by Carbide3D, the manufacturer of the Shapeoko CNC, with some minor alterations to match our particular combination of machine, router and accessories. There are links at the bottom of the page to the original videos and we would recommend you take the time to watch these though the induction quiz is just based on the transcribed text on this page.+======Introduction=====
  
-\\  +Our CNC Router is a Shapeoko 3 XL.
  
-===CNC=== +The router has a usable bed size of 800mm X 350mm.
-Computer Numerical Control is a manufacturing method that automates the control, movement and precision of machine tools through the use of preprogramed computer software, which is embedded inside the tools. The laser cutter, 3D printers, Metal Mill, PCB mill and vinyl cutter are all examples of CNC machines.+
  
-\\  +We have 1/4" and 1/8" collets for the router, and a small collection of bits for basic operations. For anything more complex (or to guarantee a sharp bit) you should use your own router bits.
  
-===CAD===+The router is driven using Carbide Motion, which is loaded on the Raspberry Pi the wooden box beside it.
  
-CAD software, Computer Aided Design. This is the entry point to getting your machine to make something. First design the item in this software, you create the edges and the features of your item. The CAD software also generates the instructions for your machine to follow. These instructions are a series of coordinates and commands which tell the machine where to be, where to go and how fast to move. Our recommendation is you use Carbide Create, this is the CAD software available form Carbide3D as its designed for beginners and if user friendly. There is a free version and a pro version, all the demonstrations will be shown using the free software that should be able to do most of the kinds of jobs this CNC is designed to do. For the more experienced user Fusion360 can be used with this CNC though it has yet to be tested and there may be slight differences in the workflow.+The router is protected by an online induction. To get inducted, read this page carefully, then take the quiz on the membership system.
  
-\\  +This wiki page will explain the basics of how to safely set up and run a simple job on the router. It will not teach you how to design things for the router, prepare files for cutting.
  
-===CAM===+To learn more about the router, including how to design and prepare files for it, check out these videos by the manufacturer: 
  
-CAM software, Computer Aided Manufacturing, is the part of the software that moves your machine according to those instructions given to it from the CAD software. It reads out the coordinates and feeds those to the CNC machine. This is the computer and the numeric parts of the machine. A series of coordinates are being fed into the machine on a consistent basis. The software we are using is Carbide Motion and it is already loaded and configured on the Raspberry PI.+  * [[https://carbide3d.com/hub/courses/getting-started-cnc/|Carbide3D Getting Started with CNC]] - A text and video series that will give you a simple introduction to the world of CNC. 
 +  * [[https://carbide3d.com/hub/courses/jumpstart/|Carbide3D Jumpstart course]] - A text and video series that takes you through designing and making several projects. 
 +  * [[https://www.youtube.com/carbide3d|Carbide 3D YouTube Page]] - Contains a large number of helpful videos with guides and tips.
  
-\\  +For first time CNC users, we recommend using the free version of Carbide Create to design and prepare your files, as this software comes pre-programmed with the parameters of our machine and our communial bits.
  
-===G Code=== +======Parts and Layout=====
-The is the language the CNC speaks, this is just a fancy word for the coordinates and commands that the Cam software spits out. This code is generated automatically by the CAD software. You do not need to write any code yourself.+
  
-\\  +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:r1.jpg?direct&600|}}
  
-===X, Y and Z=== +{{:equipment:woodshop:r2-2.jpg?direct&600|}}
-These are the directions or reference for the movement of the machine. X Is side to side, Y is backward and forward, Z is up and down. One easy way to remember the directions is that there are 'Y rails' and a 'Z axis' on the machine physically. Therefore, the only thing left. Is X side to side. +
  
-\\  +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:r3.jpg?direct&600|}}
  
-===Vector Graphics=== 
-Vector graphics, such as images saved in a SVG format, consist of lines and nodes, sometimes called points. These lines and nodes define the boundaries of any shape and art that you want to put in the computer. The information in the vector graphic allows the machine to follow the coordinates and create your art.  
  
-\\  +====== Permitted Materials ======
  
-===Tool Paths=== +You can work with the following materials on the CNC router: 
-Tool paths are the paths created by you and the CAD software. You'll define how a tool is used and where it is going to go along a tool path. This is the go between or messenger for the CAD to CAM. Your tool pathing choices are converted into coordinates for the Cam software to spit out to the machine.  Coordinates along with the actual tools it needs. +  * Hard wood 
 +  * Soft wood 
 +  * MDF 
 +  * Plywood 
 +  * Acrylic 
 +  * Delryn
  
-\\  +You must NOT work with these materials: 
 +  * Metal 
 +  * Humans
  
-===Stock=== +====== Tools Provided ======
-The stock is the material that you put in the machine to be cut. +
  
-\\  +To aide members in using the CNC for the first time we have provided a small selection of tools. These tools were selected because they match tools within the Carbide Create Tool Library making it easier to program you tool paths.
  
-===Feeds and Speeds=== +The tools provided are:
-Feed rate is the rate at which your end mill is being pushed through the material. This is generally in X & Y, so forward and backward, side to side. The Z or the plunge rate is something you also see and that is how fast it is being put into the material in a vertical fashion. +
  
-The speed is the spin rate generated by your router for the Shapeoko you'll adjust the dial on top of the router. +<WRAP 600px left> 
 +^ Bit Type ^ Mill Size ^ Carbide3D Bit Equivalent ^ 
 +| Flat Endmill | 1/4 Inch Cut - 1/4 Inch Shank | 201 | 
 +| Flat Endmill | 1/8 Inch Cut - 1/8 Inch Shank | 102 | 
 +| Ball Endmill | 1/4 Inch Cut - 1/4 Inch Shank | 202 | 
 +| Ball Endmill | 1/8 Inch Cut - 1/8 Inch Shank | 101 | 
 +| V-Bit | 90 Degree | 301 | 
 +| V-Bit | 60 Degree | 302 | 
 +| Downcut Flat Endmill | 1/4 Inch Cut - 1/4 Inch Shank | 251 | 
 +</WRAP> 
 +<WRAP clear/>
  
-These two factors, in concert with your end mill cut and shape your stock to produce your item. Feeds and speeds can be used generally or quite specifically.  The carbide 3D software comes preloaded with all the feeds and speeds you need to begin. This gives you the starting points you need to cut a wide variety of materials with a selection of different end mills.+We would recommend that anyone planning to use the CNC more that once should look at purchasing their own tools.  
  
-\\  +====== Usage Insturctions ======
  
-===Types of Tools=== +====1. Pre-Useage Checks====
-Cutters, end mills or bits.  +
-End mills have a varying number of flutes or cutting and evacuation surfaces. These flutes travel in an upward or downward spiral on the shaft of the cutter. +
  
-The flat end mill is one that finishes in a completely flat surface designed to give you a flat bottom cut in your stock. These are the workhorses of CNC 1/4 and 1/8 will get you started on your first projects. +Before you use the CNC Router, it's important to open the cabinet doors and check the following:
  
-The ball end mill finish in a ball whose nose radius is equal to 1/2 the diameter of the tool. This is a fancy way to say that the ball at the end is the same diameter as the end mill. The ball nose is used for a variety of milling and slotting operations. You'll see it frequently in 3D finishing and other finishing passes. It yields a smoother and less abrupt line between machine passes. +  * That the drive belts look in good condition, with no cuts of frays. 
 +  * There is not a thick dust build up on top of the big silver gantries. 
 +  * That there is nothing inside the enclosure that could interfere or jam the movement of the router.
  
-V Cutters/Engravers look like upside down triangles. These cutters produce a progressively wider cut as the end mill is pushed deeper into the material. They come in a variety of angles the most common are 90 and 60. In the hobbyist world, these are primarily used for letters and signs using the Vcarve tool pathing. This yields terrific detail with just the point and a totally unique look by utilising multiple depths throughout your texture lettering. Once you know about these cutters, you'll start to see items everywhere which have been created with the V cutter. +You also need to check that:
  
-Fly cutters. These are used for face milling material, flattening the waste board of your machine, or flattening the top of your material. Face milling is different than end milling in that you are only cutting with the bottom of the tool and never the. Side of the tool. Fly cutters can have multiple cutting blades on the bottom surface of the tool, but unlike a traditional end mill, do not contain those flutes, those spiral grooves up the sides of the end mill. Fly cutters contain different numbers of cutting tips from one on up use of a fly cutter typically results in excellent surface finish.+  * The fire extinguisher is present in the woodshop. 
 +  * The dust collector bag is not full.
  
-Up, cut and down cut, coming back to the topic of flutes, upcut or downcut refers to the direction of the flutes, the direction of the flutes creates a few basic effects. First, any chips or debris travelling off the cutter. Will be forced either upward or downward. Upward will have them automatically removed from the piece you are cutting downward will force those pieces towards the bottom of your stock. Second, up cut end mills pull at your part as they spin, they will put pulling force on your stock and therefore try and pry loose your material and your work holding better beyond point. Down cut, end mills push downward as they spin. This creates less stress on your stock material, but also keeps chips and debris inside your work area with the potential for the end mill to encounter not only the material being cut, the new material being cut, but also the previously cut chips of that material. This isn't a big deal with wood and most plastics. +If you see anything wrong with the condition of the machine, don't use it and let the committee know on the forum.
  
-There are lots of other specialty end mills that you may come across or choose to experiment with as you progress in CNC But the above will take you 95% of the way to making nearly anything.+====2. Starting the Machine and Software====
  
-\\  +  * Log into the machine with your card/fob (once you've passed the induction). The enclosure lights should turn on when you log in. 
 +  * If the Raspberry Pi is not already running, press the silver power button to boot it up. Note that the screen may not immediately respond when you press the button. 
 +  * If the emergency stop button has been pressed, rotate it clockwise to reset it.
  
-===Types of Machining===+Once the Raspberry Pi has booted:
  
-2D, 2.5D and 3D machining. These are three types of machining you will hear referenced. +  * Start the "Carbide Motion" software by pressing the raspberry button in the top left of the screen → Office → Carbide Motion.  
 +  * In Carbide Motion, press the "Connect to cutter" button 
 +  * Press the "Initialise Machine" button. 
  
-2D and 2.5 are nearly the same thing. 2D refers to the machine running in the X, side to side, and the Y, front to back, directions only. This assumes you are cutting through or dragging along your material at the same depth the entire time. This is very similar to a vinyl cutter where you have the Y running by pulling the vinyl in and out of the machine and your X going across with a knife, and that knife is stable. It's not moving up and down. +The router will now move to the rear rightmost point, and will then move to the front right.
  
-2.5D machining indicates that the features of the item are being created at different depths depending upon the feature. Vectors can be used as accent features, not just as cutouts, a pocket inside an item which was later cut out would be indicative of 2.5D machining.+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:1_office_carbide_motion.png?direct&400|}}
  
-3D tool paths are created off 3D models depending upon the software you're using, you'll be able to see the 3D model of your design part, that part and your inputting of tool paths will create situations where the machine is moving in all three axis at once.+====3. Clamping Down your Stock====
  
-===== Instructions ===== 
  
-\\  +NOTE: All items for the CNC including probe pins, router bits, collets spanners and allen key can be found in the small draw under the Raspberry Pi and returned here after use.
  
-=== Ground Rules === +*****Before you clamp down your stock, move the router out of your way:
-  * All users must complete an induction prior to using the machine.  +
-  * No metal materials, this CNC is just for use with wood and suitable plastics. +
-  * Don't try and bypass the safety interlocks. They are there to protect you and the machine. +
-  * Wear eye protection when the door is open. End mills can shatter if crashed. +
-  * Wear hearing protection and offer hearing protection to others in the room. +
-  * Keep fingers away from moving parts. +
-  * Tidy up afterwards. Vacuum up your dust and wipe down any dirty surfaces.+
  
-\\  +  * Press the "Jog" button at the top of the Carbide Create window to open the Jog Screen. 
 +  * From the Jog Screen, use the buttons on the screen or the USB pendant to move the router out of your way.
  
 +  * Place your stock on the spoilboard. Use the small "stop blocks" on one side to position your stock and align it with the grid of holes.
 +  * Use the Crush-It clamps on the opposite side of your stock to hold it securely. To do this. first loosen (but don't remove) the small screws on the front of the clamps, position the clamps tightly against your stock, bolt the clamps to the spill board, then tighten the front screw to push the clamp face firmly against the stock.
 +  * Double-check that your stock is firmly attached to the spillboard by trying to move it. If there is any movement, you should re-clamp it.
  
-===Creating a design in Carbide Create=== +Tip: The stop blocks have smooth and serated sides, and the Crush-It clamps have replacable smooth and serrated jaws. The serrated surfaces give better grip but can leave marks on some stock.
-At the time of writing the latest version of Carbide Create is V7 build 764.+
  
-The is just a basic How-To to get you started. There are links at the bottom the the page to a series of videos from Carbide 3D as well as their full written manual, The manual is for a slightly older version but most of the important parts are the same.+Tip: Make sure the clamps don't block your toolpath!
  
-When you first open Carbide Create you will be presented with the design screen. This is where you create/import your design before setting up the toolpaths for the machine to cut. The white grid is your workspace and there are several button on the left hand side you can use for changing settings or drawing vectors. +Tip: Use bolts of the correct length to fix the clamps to the spillboard. If the bolts are too long they will bottom out in the threaded holes.
  
-Hovering you mouse over any of the buttons brings up a tooltip with a brief description of what it does.+NOTE: Don't over tighten the clamps as they will pull the clamping point through the spoil board.
  
-The first step is to your stock and machine settings.+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:spoilboard_clamp_issue.jpg?400|}}
  
-Click on the settings icon.+====4. Probing your Stock Location====
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_mainscreen_settingsbutton.jpg?direct|}}+We have a BitZero probe kit, which we use to accurately locate corner of your stock is and how tall it is. This is known as setting the "Work Zero". The kit consists of a probe pin, a probe plate, and a magnetic earth connection. To use the BitZero:
  
-This brings up the 'Job Setup' box.+  * Remove the dust shoe (it's magnetically attached and just pulls downwards) 
 +  * Install a probe pin into the router collet (using the instructions for installing router bits and probe pins at the bottom of this page). 
 +  * Place the probe plate on your stock so so that is tight to the front left corner.  
 +  * From the Jog Screen, use the buttons on the screen or the USB pendant to position the router so that the tip of the probe is within the circular hole in the probe plate. 
 +  * Attach the magnetic earth to the router collet. 
 +  * From the Jog Screen, press Probe. A pop-up window will open. 
 +  * Press "Corner" then on the next screen, press "Begin Probe".
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_jobsetup.jpg?direct|}}+The router will move slowly to identify the sides of the circular hole with the probe pin, then it will lift out of the hole and tap the top of the probe plate. 
  
-Enter the width and height of your material(stock). Once applied this will also update the grid on the design screen to match.+When it has finished doing this, a pop-up window will ask you to remove the magnetic earth.
  
-Enter the stock thickness, if you are cutting all the way through it then it's very important to get this correct. The 'Zero Height' dropdown has two options, Top of Bottom. This corresponds to where you set the zero point on the machine (more on this later). The default is Top.+  * Remove the magnetic earth from the router collet. 
 +  * Press the Ok button.
  
-The Toolpath Zero drop down allows you to select where in relation to your design you are going to set the zero point on the machine. This might sound complicated but it should become clear when we cover setting the workspace zero point on the machine. The default is Lower-Left.+The router will now move to the front-right and touch the probe pin to the height probe on the machine's frame. This completes the probe operation.
  
-Under the 'Job' section select the material type you are working with, please note that even though Aluminium is an option metal is not permitted to be cut on this machine. Machine should be set to Shapeoko 3. Retract Height is the height the cutting bit will lift up above the stock when moving from one position to another, the default of 5mm is normally fine. The 'Units' dropdown allows you to change between millimetres and inches for your measurements and grid layout.+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:6_check_probe.jpg?400|}} 
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:8_corner.png?400|}}
  
-Once you have finished click 'Ok'. You should see that the white grid has changed to match the stock dimensions you entered.+====5. Loading your File====
  
-Now you can use the 'Crete Vector' buttons to make basic designs.+  * Insert your USB drive into USB port on the front of the Raspberry Pi case. 
 +  * Cancel the "Removable Medium" pop-up menu.
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_createvector.jpg?direct|}} +  * Press "Run" at the top of the Carbide Create window to open the Job Info Screen 
 +  * Press "Load New File" on the Job Info Screen. 
 +  * In the Open File pop-up, navigate to your USB drive (computer → / → media → cncuser → your USB drive) and open your .C2D file.
  
-For this example we are going to draw a square 150mm X 150mm which will be the outer line of our design.+Tip: You can sanity-check your file is correct by switching to the Top View tab.
  
-Click on the create rectangle tool, click once on the grid to select the centre of the rectangle then move your cursor to set the size of the rectangle and click again to finish. You don't have to worry about getting the square the correct size or in the correct place when drawing it as these can be easily changed later. 
  
-With the rectangle drawn and selected you will then see more options in the toolbar on the left.+====6. Starting your Job====
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_shapeparam.jpg?direct|}}+  * Press "Start Job" on the Job Info Screen. 
 +  * On the pop-up, press "Start"
  
-In the 'Parameters' section you can specify the physical size as well as specific parameters for a particular shape, like the corner style and radius for a rectangle.+The spindle will now move to the front-right, and a new pop-up will ask you to install your first bit.
  
-The 'Transform' section has several tools to like move, scale, rotate and mirror. I want the square to be positioned in the lower corner but spaced away from the edge slightly. Selecting the 'Move' option gives me the following parameters.+  * Install your first router bit into the router (using the instructions for installing router bits and probe pins at the bottom of this page). 
 +  * Re-fit the magnetic dust shoe. 
 +  * Switch on the dust collector. 
 +  * Open the blast gate for the CNC router, and close the blast gates for any machines that are not in use. 
 +  * Close the cabinet doors. 
 +  * Press the "Resume" button on the pop-up.
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_move.jpg?direct|}}+The spindle will now spin up, and a new pop-up will ask you to check the speed setting on the router.
  
-The Anchor point selection allows you to choose what point on the shape to use for the measurements. The Position shows the location of the selected point in relation to the bottom left corner. X is how far the shape is away left to right and Y is the distance bottom to top. By selecting the anchor point in the lower left and specifying 10mm in both the X and Y boxes the square is moved 10mm away from both the lower and left edge of my stock.+  * Check the speed dial on the router matches the requested speed in the pop-up. 
 +  * If it doesn't, open the cabinet doors, change the speed, and close them again. 
 +  * Press "Resume".
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_mainscreen_square.jpg?direct|}}+After a brief pause, the job will begin.
  
-For the sake of simplicity I will not be covering any of the other 'Transform' tools, watch the video tutorials or read the manual of you want to know more about these options.+{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:19_fit_dust_shoe.jpg?400|}} 
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:18_tool_change.png?400|}}\\ 
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:20_spindle.jpg?400|}} 
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:21_resume.png?400|}}
  
-In the 'Edit' section there are some more tools, the only one we will cover now is the Edit Tabs option.+====7. While the Machine is Running====
  
-If you are cutting a part out from a larger piece of stock that it clamped in place it is important that your part doesn't become separated from the rest of your stock. If I were just to cut out that 150x150mm square entirely it would become loose inside the machine possible moving and jamming the bit. This could result in the bit breaking and/or the workpiece being catapulted into the air.+The machine MUST be closely supervised at all times when running. This is to ensure:
  
-The easiest way to ensure a part you want to fully cut out doesn't become loose is to tell the machine to leave it attached by a few small tabs. These tabs can then be manually cut and sanded flat once the CNC job is complete. There are other ways of clamping that mitigate this issue, like double sided tape, but this How-To is assuming you are using the supplied clamping kit.+  * The workpiece remains firmly clamped 
 +  * The machine doesn't jam or get stuck 
 +  * The extraction is clearing dust effectively 
 +  * There is no risk of fire
  
-Selecting the 'Edit Tabs' option will click anywhere along a vector line to place a tab, you can also click the 'Clear all tabs' button to delete all the tabs. I will click roughly on the midpoint of each line of the square to add a tab, we will specify the physical sizes in a later step.+Opening the door during the job will pause the machine and show a pop-up. To resume the job, close the doors and press "Resume" on the pop-up. This is useful if you need to check your clamps or remove detritus.
  
-Tabs added to the square.+Hitting the E-stop button during the job will kill the power to the controller and spindle.
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:carbide_create_mainscreen_tabs.jpg?direct|}}+====8. Changing Bit During a Job====
  
-===Generating toolpaths in Carbide Create=== +Some jobs require more than one bit to complete, and you will be asked to change bits partway through.
-===Powering up machine=== +
-===Homing=== +
-===Clamping stock=== +
-===Installing bit=== +
-===Setting workspace coordinates and probing=== +
-===Loading, Checking and Running the Gcode Toolpath=== +
-===Cleaning Up===+
  
-===== External links ===== +When this happens, the router will move to the front-right of the cabinet and spin down. A pop-up will ask you to install the new bit and then set the new speed in exactly the same way as you did for your first bit at the start of the job.
-=== Carbide 3D video guide on using Carbide Create === +
-https://my.carbide3d.com/#Design_with_Carbide_Create+
  
-Video tutorials. +====9. After your Job====
-Cut Rocket +
-YouTube+
  
 +When you're finished, you should always:
 +  * Clear any waste or debris from the cabinet.
 +  * Log out of the machine by pressing the button on the RFID box.
 +  * Shut down the Raspberry Pi if the machine isn't going to be used again soon.
 +
 +====How to Change Router Bits or Probe Pins====
 +
 +The cutting edges of bits can be sharp so gloves should be worn when changing bits.
 +
 +To install a router bit or probe pin:
 +  * Remove the dust shoe.
 +  * Hold the yellow button on the side of the router and use a 17mm spanner to loosen the collet nut.
 +  * Once the collet is loose, you can withdraw the bit or pin currently installed.
 +
 +  * We have a 1/4" and 1/8" collet, to suit different bits. If you need to swap to the other collet:
 +     * Continue to unscrew the collet nut until the collet and nut can be removed from the router.
 +     * Screw the other collet and nut into the router in it's place.
 +
 +  * Insert the new bit or pin into the collet.
 +  * Make sure that the bottom of your bit or pin does not protrude more than 150mm below the bottom of the aluminum bracket that holds the router. There is a helpful L-shaped guide in the drawer to assist when measuring this.
 +  * Hold the yellow button on the side of the router, and use a 17mm spanner to firmly tighten the collet nut.
 +
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:woodcnc:six_inches.jpg?direct&600|}}
 +
 +====== Glossary of Common CNC Terms ======
 +
 +Most definitions here are adapted from Carbide3D’s video series, with small changes for our machine and accessories.\\
 +**Tip:** These are the basics you’ll need for your induction quiz. Links to the original videos are at the bottom if you want to go deeper.
 +
 +==== Core Concepts ====
 +
 +**CNC** – //Computer Numerical Control//\\
 +A computer-controlled machine that moves a cutting tool with high precision. Our laser cutter, 3D printers, and vinyl cutter are also CNC machines.
 +
 +**CAD** – //Computer-Aided Design//\\
 +Software used to design your part. You draw shapes, add features, and prepare them for cutting.  
 +  * **We use:** Carbide Create (free version is fine)  
 +  * **Why it matters:** This is where you create the geometry of your project.
 +
 +**CAM** – //Computer-Aided Manufacturing//\\
 +Software that converts your CAD design into movement instructions for the CNC.  
 +  * **We use:** Carbide Motion (pre-installed on the workshop Raspberry Pi)  
 +  * **Why it matters:** This is the “translator” between your design and the machine.
 +
 +**G-code**  
 +The text-based “language” CNC machines read. Generated automatically by CAD/CAM software. You don’t need to write it manually.
 +
 +==== Machine Movement ====
 +
 +**Axes**  
 +  * **X:** Left ↔ Right  
 +  * **Y:** Front ↔ Back  
 +  * **Z:** Up ↔ Down  
 +//Tip: Y has the “Y rails” and Z is the vertical axis — that leaves X as side-to-side.//
 +
 +**Home Position** – The fixed point the machine returns to after startup.\\
 +**Work Zero** – Your chosen starting point for a specific job (usually a corner or centre of the stock).
 +
 +==== Design Files ====
 +
 +**Vector Graphics**\\
 +Drawings made of lines and points (e.g., SVG files). Ideal for CNC because the machine can follow their coordinates exactly.
 +
 +**Toolpaths**\\
 +The routes your cutter will follow. Defined in CAD, turned into G-code in CAM.
 +
 +==== Materials & Workholding ====
 +
 +**Stock** – The material you’re cutting.\\
 +**Spoilboard** – A sacrificial board under the stock to protect the machine.\\
 +**Workholding** – Clamps or other methods to secure your stock so it doesn’t move.
 +
 +==== Cutting Parameters ====
 +
 +**Feed Rate** – How fast the cutter moves through the material (X/Y).\\
 +**Plunge Rate** – How fast the cutter moves down into the material (Z).\\
 +**Spindle Speed** – How fast the bit spins (RPM), adjusted on the router dial.\\
 +
 +//Why it matters:// These three settings determine cut quality and safety. Carbide Create has safe starting values for common materials.
 +
 +==== Tools & Cutters ====
 +
 +**End Mill / Bit** – The cutting tool.  
 +  * **Flat End Mill** – Flat tip, general-purpose cutting.  
 +  * **Ball End Mill** – Rounded tip, for 3D contours and smooth finishes.  
 +  * **V-Cutter** – Angled tip, ideal for engraving and sign work.  
 +  * **Fly Cutter** – Large flat cutter for surfacing spoilboards or material tops.
 +
 +**Flutes** – The cutting edges on a bit. More flutes = smoother cut, fewer flutes = faster removal.
 +
 +**Upcut / Downcut** – Direction of flute spiral:  
 +  * **Upcut:** Pulls chips up and away (better chip removal, but can lift stock).  
 +  * **Downcut:** Pushes chips down (better surface finish, but can trap chips).
 +
 +**Shank size** – the size of the diameter of the solid part of the bit, two sizes are currently supported by our router:    
 +  * **1/8** - 1/8 inch (3.175mm).
 +  * **1/4** - 1/4 inch (6.35mm).
 +
 +==== Machining Types ====
 +
 +**2D Machining** – Cutting shapes at a constant depth.\\
 +**2.5D Machining** – Multiple depths, but cutting one flat layer at a time (e.g., pockets + cutouts).\\
 +**3D Machining** – Machine moves in X, Y, and Z simultaneously to create complex curves.\\
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