Differences

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--- equipment:woodshop:tablesaw [2023/10/02 20:12] – drew
+++ equipment:woodshop:tablesaw [2024/11/19 21:42] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-======Table Saw - DeWalt DWE7485======
+======Table Saw - DeWalt DWE7485 ======
 {{:equipment:woodshop:dewalt_dwe74852.jpg?nolink&600|}}
-<callout title="Induction Required" type="danger" icon="true"> This equipment requires an induction prior to use. For your own safety and to avoid damage to the equipment do not attempt to use it until you have been inducted. </callout>
+**User Manual: {{ :equipment:woodshop:dwe7485.pdf |}} **
+<callout title="Self-Induction Required" type="danger" icon="true"> This equipment requires an self-induction prior to use. For your own safety and to avoid damage to the equipment do not attempt to use it until you have completed this. </callout>
-<callout title="Laceration / Entanglement Hazard" type="warning" icon="true"> This equipment is hazardous to the user or those around them, take care during use.</callout>
+<callout title="Laceration / Entanglement Hazard" type="warning" icon="true"> This equipment is hazardous to the user and others in the space.</callout>
-<callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true"> This equipment requires the use of eye protection / hearing protection / respiratory protection during use.</callout>
+<callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true"> This equipment requires the use of eye protection / hearing protection / extraction during use.</callout>
-====Warnings====
+----
-**The Manual to the table-saw can be found here: you should familiarise yourself with it before using the saw: {{ :equipment:woodshop:dwe7485.pdf |}} **
+======Induction======
-**This table saw has many similarities with our old table saw, but several key differences. Please read this page carefully before attempting to use the new saw. Notes on the differences will be in bold throughout the article.**
+The machine uses our two-part self-induction system. Part 1 of the induction comprises the study materials below. Part 2 comprises an online test to demonstrate you have understood part 1.
-  * **THE TABLE SAW IS THE MOST DANGEROUS TOOL IN OUR WOODSHOP!** It may look straightforward to use, but any deviation from correct procedure is very likely to result in an extremely nasty accident.
+Once you have studied the materials below, you can find Part 2 on the access control portal in the Hackspace. You can learn more about that [[access_control:home|at Access Control]].
-  * **THE TABLE SAW IS NOT A GENERAL PURPOSE SAW!** It must only be used for the types of cuts it is designed for. In particular:
+Once you successfully complete the part 2 test, your card will be automatically accredited for use with the saw and you can start using it straight away.
-    * "Rip Cuts" - cuts along the length of a piece of dimensional seasoned timber or sheet material - This is the designed purpose of a table saw.
-    * "Cross Cuts" - cuts across the width a piece of dimensional seasoned timber or sheet material - This must be done with the mitre gauge
-    * Never use the table saw for other  types of cut, especially free-hand cuts, or for cutting irregular pieces of wood that cannot be held flat against the bed and fence (or gauge).
-  * Check if we have a more suitable tool before using the table saw. **The table saw should always be your last option for making a cut.**
+====Health & Safety Warnings====
-  * Wear PPE! The table saw can damage your hearing, your eyes, and your respiratory system.
+  * **A TABLE SAW IS OFTEN THE MOST DANGEROUS TOOL IN A WOODSHOP!** It may look straightforward to use, but any deviation from correct procedure is can result in an extremely nasty accident.
-====General Intro to Table Saws====
+  * **THE TABLE SAW IS NOT A GENERAL PURPOSE SAW!** It is designed to make specific types of cuts, and should only be used in that way. Check if we have a more suitable tool before using the table saw. **The table saw should always be your last option for making a cut.**
-{{youtube>eEWu4xcHiGY?medium}}
+  * **Wood dust is hazardous!** You must always connect the table saw to the mobile extractor, and empty the extractor bin when it's full.
+  * **The table saw is loud!** You must wear ear protection, and offer it to those around you before using the saw.
 ==== Intro ====
-{{:equipment:woodshop:tablesawlabelled.png?nolink&400|}}
-This is our table saw. Note the blade guard, riving knife, and fence attached. The cross-cut sledge is to the left of the machine, and the extractor is to the right.
+This is our table saw:
-====What Can I Cut?====
+{{ :equipment:woodshop:tablesawlabelled.png?nolink&800 |}}
-The table saw is only for seasoned timber with at least one straight edge, or timber-based sheet materials.
-Do not use it for:
+====What Can I Use the Table Saw For?====
-  * Other materials, such as plastic or metal.
-  * Irregular pieces of timber, such as when cutting down lathe blanks. Use the bandsaw for this!
-  * Fresh-cut or unseasoned timber.
-  * Timber that doesn't fit the saw.
-=====Rip Cutting=====
+The table saw is for cutting seasoned dimensional timber, or timber-based sheet materials such as ply or MDF.
-This section outlines out to set up and make a rip cut, the main intended use for a table saw. Ripping is when you cut along the length of a piece of wood (usually following the grain).
+It should only be used to cut materials that can be held firmly against the bed and the fence without risk of slipping during the cut. This means the materials must have regular flat sides.
-**Rip cuts must always be made with the riving knife, blade guard, and fence fitted. NEVER try and rip cut without these in place.**
+You must never use the table saw for:
+  * Any other materials, such as plastic, resin, or metal.
+  * Irregularly-shaped pieces of timber (eg: tree branches, lathe blanks) that can't be held firmly against both the bed and fence.
+  * Fresh-cut, "green", or unseasoned timber.
+  * Stuff that doesn't fit in the saw.
-====Setup and Preparation====
+Table saws are designed for making rip cuts. A rip-cut is a cut along the length of a piece of timber (usually following the grain) guided by the fence. Rip Cutting is the standard usage for our saw, and covered in this induction.
-Before making a rip cut with the table saw, you must:
+It is also possible to use the table saw to make other types of cuts, usually via an appropriate jig or sledge. These types of usage are not covered in detail this induction. **Please Note: You must __never__ use the table saw to make 'freehand' cuts or curved cuts!**
-  * Inspect the machine.
-  * Ensure the work area is clear of trip-hazards and obstacles.
-  * Ensure the material exit area is clear of obstructions.
-  * Ensure the riving knife, blade guard, and fence are fitted.
-  * Adjust the blade height to ensure the gullets are just above the surface of your material. ([[https://youtu.be/U-bTxAeh9DA?t=6|See this video (60s)]])
-  * Check your material contains no nails or other hardware.
-  * **Attach the blue cyclone extractor/shopvac to the port on the back of the saw**
-  * Ensure you have push sticks or push blocks to hand. **One push stick can be found attached to the saw's fence: two more are attached to the table saw stand**
-  * Put on your PPE (Eye, Ear and respiratory protection are required).
-  * Tie back hair and remove loose items (jewelry baggy sleeves, hoody tassles, etc.)
-  * Tell other people in the room that you are using the saw, and invite them to wear hearing protection.
-=== Fence set up===
-  - **Unlock the fence adjustment by pressing the rail lock lever (number 5 in the labelled image above)**
-  - **Spin the fine adjust knob (number 4) or push the fence to the desired location**
-  - **If the fence now extends beyond the bed of the table saw, then lower the fence extension support by gently swinging it over. The fence extension support can engage in two different heights: the higher height allows it to act as a fence for narrow rips, the lower allows it to act as a support: make sure that the support is in the desired position**
-  - **Finally, lock the fence in place using the rail lock lever**
-  * **The fence has two possible positions, one for wider rips: if you would like to adjust the fence, please consult the manual**
+====Setup and Preparation for a Rip Cut====
+To safely make a rip cut it's vital that you set the saw up correctly. This means ensuring a riving knife is fitted (part of the blade guard and riving knife assembly), the fence is correctly positioned and locked for your cut, and the blade is set to the right height for your material. Taking these steps help prevent kickback, which is covered in detail further down this page.
+Before making a rip cut you must:
-Insert gullet picture here
+  * Set up the working area:
+    * Inspect the machine for obvious defects or damage.
-Insert set up picture here.
+    * Ensure the working area is clear of trip-hazards and obstacles.
+    * Ensure the outfeed area is clear of obstructions.
+    * Connect the mobile dust extractor/cyclone to the port on the lower back of the machine.
+    * Check if the extractor/cyclone is full, and empty it if needed.
+    * Ensure the blade guard & riving knife assembly is securely in place.
+  * Set up the machine for your cut: Fence Position:
+    * Release the rail locking lever (F)
+    * Use the fence adjustment wheel (G) to position the fence.
+    * Remember to lock the rail locking lever (F) again!
+    * If your cut requires the fence to be set beyond the edge of the bed, flip the bed extension (E) over into it's lower position to provide support for the edge of your material.
+  * Set up the machine for your cut: Blade Height:
+    * Use the blade height wheel (I) to set the height. You should ensuring that the blade gullets are just above the surface of your material ([[https://youtu.be/U-bTxAeh9DA?t=6|See this video (60s)]])
+  * Set up the machine for your cut: Blade Angle (if required):
+    * Release the blade angle locking lever (H).
+    * Move the blade height wheel (I) side to side to set the blade angle.
+    * Remember to lock the blade angle locking leaver (H) again.
+  * Stay safe:
+    * Put on hearing protection, and inviting others in the room to do the same.
+    * Put on eye protection.
+    * Tie back long hair, and remove any loose or dangly items (jewellery, baggy sleeves, hoody tassels, etc).
 ====Making a Rip Cut====
-When making a rip cut, you must:
+When making a rip cut you must:
-  * **Hold your material firmly against the table and the fence throughout the cut.** If your wood doesn't fit between the blade and the fence, you are using the wrong saw. **Do not remove the fence to make it fit!**
+  * Use the mobile dust extractor/cyclone at all times.
-  * Feed your material slowly through the blade. If you have to force it, or if you smell burning, stop and investigate.
+  * **Hold your material firmly against the fence and firmly against the table throughout the cut.**
-  * **Use push sticks or push blocks wherever possible.** Many gruesome table saw accidents would have been prevented by using these.
+  * Feed your material slowly through the saw. If you smell burning, see smoke, or have to force your material, stop the saw and investigate.
-  * Never allow your hands to come close to the blade, or inline with the blade.
+  * **Wherever possible, use push sticks or push blocks instead of your hands to hold your material.** Many gruesome table saw accidents would have been prevented this way.
+  * Never allow your hands to come anywhere close to the blade, or in line with the blade.
   * Never reach across the saw while it is running.
   * Never walk away from the saw while it is running.
-  * Always shut down the machine before retrieving your material or offcuts.
+  * Never retrieve your material or waste from the saw while it is running.
-====After Cutting====
+Here is a good example of the correct usage of a push stick, a push block, the fence, and the bed extension:
+{{ :equipment:woodshop:table_saw:rip_wide_hands.jpg?nolink&400 |}}
+====After Rip Cutting====
 After making a rip cut, you must:
-  * Switch off the saw.
+  * Switch off the saw before collecting your material or clearing up waste.
-  * Wait for the blade to come to a complete halt before leaving the area, or collecting your materials.
+  * Switch off the extractor.
-  * Clean up the area.
+  * Clean up the area once the saw is off.
-  * Put the padlock back on the machine.
+  * Tap out of the machine to ensure others cannot use it without passing this induction.
-  * **Return the push sticks to their correct locations (the holster on the fence or the hooks on the tablesaw stand)**
+  * Return the push sticks to their correct locations.
+====Understand Table Saw Kickback====
-====Kickback====
+**Kickback is an incredibly dangerous and common phenomenon when using a table saw!** Kickback occurs when the material is permitted to twist slightly, or lifts from the bed. The saw will suddenly grab and twist the material, then spit it back at the operator at very high speed. The operator's hand is frequently drawn into the spinning blade at the same time.
-**Kickback is an incredibly dangerous phenomenon.** This is when the saw spits the material back towards the operator at very high speed. The operator's hand is often drawn into the blade at the same time. Watch this video through to understand the dangers of kickback (note: the video is in a simulated environment hence there is no gore):
+As part of this induction, you MUST watch the following video to fully understand the causes and dangers of kickback. (NB: There is no gore.)
 {{youtube>u7sRrC2Jpp4?medium}}
 **To avoid kickback when rip cutting you must always:**
-  * **Have the riving knife, blade guard, and fence fitted.**
+  * **Have the riving knife & blade guard assembly fitted.**
-  * **Hold your material firmly against the table and fence throughout the cut.**
+  * **Have the fence locked in the correct position for your cut.**
+  * **Have the blade height set correctly for the thickness of your material.**
+  * **Hold your material firmly against the fence and against the table at all times throughout the cut** (Preferably with push sticks or push pads.)
-=====Cross Cutting=====
+====Other Types of Cut: Using Sledges and Jigs ====
-**This entire section has been modified so please read it in detail before attempting to crosscut**
-This section outlines out to set up and make a cross cut. This is were you cut across the width of a piece of wood, going across the grain.
-The table saw should never be your primary choice for crosscutting: you should only use the table saw for this task if your stock is too big to be cut on the mitre saw. **You must always use the mitre gauge for crosscutting, and the stock should not make contact with the fence. The stock touching both the mitre gauge and the fence greatly increases the risk of kickback and thus of serious injury.**
+It's possible to safely use the table saw to make other kinds of cut beyond rip-cutting. This involves using a sledge or jig which runs on the slots on the bed and holds the workpiece in place as it passes the blade. The details of these usages are not covered in detail this induction, however the following important points must be observed:
-====Setup and Preparation====
+  * Always check to see if there is another way to make the desired cut, for example using the mitre-saw or band-saw. The table saw should always be the machine of last resort for anything other than it's designed purpose of rip-cutting.
+  * Ensure the fence is well clear of your workpiece when using a sledge or jig. If a workpiece held in a sledge or jig catches on the fence, it is very likely to cause kickback.
+  * If your sledge or jig requires the removal of the blade guard, then you must swap the combined blade guard & riving knife assembly for the stand-alone riving knife. You must never run the saw without a riving knife of some kind fitted! See below for instructions on changing the guard/knife.
+  * If you do switch to the stand-alone riving knife, you must return the saw to it's normal state for the next user by swapping back to the blade guard & riving knife assembly.
+  * Remember: You must never use the table saw to make freehand or curved cuts!
-To set up for making a cross cut, you must:
+====Other Types of Cut: Rebates and Channels ====
-  * Inspect the machine.
-  * Ensure the work area is clear of trip-hazards and obstacles.
-  * Ensure the material exit area is clear of obstructions.
-  * **Fit the mitre gauge into the rail on the table.**
-  * **Make sure the fence is extended out of the way of your stock.**
-  * Adjust the blade height to ensure the gullets are just above the surface of your material. ([[https://youtu.be/U-bTxAeh9DA?t=6|See this video (60s)]])
-  * Check your material contains no nails or other hardware.
-  * **Attach the blue cyclone extractor/shop vac to the port on the back of the saw**.
-  * Put on your PPE (Eye, Ear and respiratory protection are required).
-  * Tell other people in the room that you are using the saw, and invite them to wear hearing protection.
+A fairly straightforward alternative use of the table saw is to cut a rebate or channel. Essentially, this is a cut that only goes partway through the material. Rebate cutting is not covered in detail this induction, however the following important points must be observed:
+  * Always check to see if there is another way to make a rebate cut before using the table saw, for example using a router. The table saw should always be the machine of last resort for anything other than it's designed purpose of rip-cutting.
+  * You will need to remove the blade guard to make a rebate cut. This means you must swap the combined blade guard & riving knife assembly for the stand-alone riving knife. You must never run the saw without a riving knife of some kind fitted! See below for instructions on changing the guard/knife.
+  * Remember, without the blade guard fitted, the blade will be hidden from view inside your workpiece. You must pay particular attention to the positioning of your hands when cutting rebates, to insure you do not come into contact with the blade as it exits the back of your workpiece. If at all possible, use push sticks!
-====Making a Cross Cut====
+==== Changing the Blade Guard / Riving Knife ====
-When making a cross cut, you must:
+The table saw comes with a combined blade guard & riving knife assembly (B), and also a separate stand-alone riving knife (K), which can be used for cuts where the blade guard would get in the way (for example when using a sledge or cutting a rebate). One of these must always be in place when using the saw. **Never use the table saw without a riving knife of some kind fitted!**
-  * Place your wood onto the mitre gauge, and tightly pinch the wood to the gauge.
-  * **Ensure your wood is not making contact with the fence**
-  * Feed your material slowly through the blade. If you have to force it, or if you smell burning, stop and investigate.
-  * Never allow your hands to come close to the blade, or inline with the blade
-  * Never reach across the saw while it is running.
-  * Never walk away from the saw while it is running.
-  * Always shut down the machine before retrieving your material or offcuts.
-====After Cutting====
-After making a cross cut, you must:
-  * Switch off the saw.
-  * Wait for the blade to come to a complete halt before leaving the area, or collecting your materials.
-  * Clean up the area.
-  * Remove the mitre gauge and return it to its storage location.
-  * Put the padlock back on the machine.
-=====Other cuts======
-Table saws can also be used for other cuts, such as cutting grooves and rebates.
-If this is to be done, the blade guard must be replaced with the riving knife, which can be found on the back right of the table saw.
-**This greatly increases the danger of using the table saw: you should try and avoid doing cuts of this nature if possible**.
-If you decide to make a cut such as this, you should be aware that this significantly increases the chance of kick back: you should always use two push sticks when performing rips cuts, and keep both hands on the mitre gauge if performing crosscuts.
-If you are making these cuts then ensure you replace the guard and return the riving knife to its slot once you are done.
-**Under no circumstances should the saw ever be used without either the guard or riving knife**
-===== Changing the guard / knife =====
+To change between the two:
-The lock knob to change the riving knife / blade guard is under the rear left of the table saw.
+  * Locate the locking knob, which is inside the saw under the bed on the left hand side.
+  * Unscrew the knob anticlockwise as far as it will easily go (no need to force it).
+  * Pull on the knob and simultaneously lift the knife/guard up out of its slot.
+  * Pull on the knob again while slotting the other knife/guard into the slot.
+  * Screw the knob back in clockwise as far as it will easily ago (again no need to force it).
+  * Double-check that knife you have fitted is perfectly in line with the sawblade.
-When changing the knife/guard undo the lock knob until you can’t undo it anymore (but not HARD!) then pull it to release the lock pins. Knife/guard should be easy to lift out at this point.
+Make sure you always leave the saw in it's default state when you've finished using it: With the combination Blade Guard & Riving Knife Assembly fitted ready for rip-cutting.
-The lock pins are spring loaded so you need to keep pulling until you’ve removed the knife etc.
+The stand-alone knife blade should be kept clipped to right-hand side of the saw body.
-Do the reverse to install the knife/guard.
+{{ :equipment:woodshop:table-saw-knifey-guardy.jpg?nolink&400 |}}
-=====Further Learning=====
+====Further Learning====
-We strongly recommend that you also watch these videos before using the saw:
+We strongly recommend that you also watch this video ((The embedded video doesn't work in some browsers. Here's a link instead: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEWu4xcHiGY)) before using the saw:
 {{youtube>eEWu4xcHiGY?medium}}
-Setting the Blade height:
-{{youtube>U-bTxAeh9DA?medium}}
-If you have successfully passed the induction but still do not feel confident using the saw by yourself, feel free to reach out to Matt_RT on the discourse forum for an in person induction.
+=====Maintenance=====
+See manual for instructions for changing the blade.
-====Table Saw Induction====
-This page is part 1 of the table saw self-induction. Once you have read, watched, and understood the information here, follow the link below to Part 2. This comprises a short online quiz that, if passed, will give you the current padlock code.
-[[https://forms.gle/1wDDwZL875U5o7M58|Quiz]]
-====Maintenance====
-Changing the blade (full instructions are in the manual).
-  - Unplug the table saw first.
-  - Remove the blade guard.
-  - Remove the throat plate from around the blade.
-  - **There are 2 black spanners held on the back of the saw with a wingnut.** These will help remove the blade.
 The replacement blade is 210mm by 30mm (and about 2.4mm kerf)
@@ Line 201: / Line 170: @@
 Standard option: https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-craftpro-csb-21048-wood-circular-saw-blade-210mm-x-30mm-48t/542xg
+and from Toolstation: [[https://www.toolstation.com/trend-craft-circular-saw-blade/p24185|Trend Craft Circular Saw Blade 210 x 48T x 30mm CSB/21048|]]