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equipment:woodshop:routertabletriton [2025/01/26 19:06] – kitkatequipment:woodshop:routertabletriton [2025/01/27 15:02] (current) – sammyc
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-{{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&200 |}}+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&400 |}}
 ===== Risks ===== ===== Risks =====
  
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 ===== Induction ===== ===== Induction =====
-Due to the risks to users and others this equipment will have a mandatory induction. This can be in-person or online, please use the forum to ask for an in-person induction or go to the Membership Portal PC to sign in and find the online induction. Once completed your card/fob will be authorised to unlock the RFID lockout box so the equipment can be switched on.+Due to the risks to users and others this equipment has a mandatory online induction. Go to the Membership Portal PC to sign in and find the online induction. Once completed your card/fob will be authorised to unlock the RFID lockout box so the equipment can be switched on.
  
 ====Specification==== ====Specification====
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 ==== Introduction ==== ==== Introduction ====
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl_standard_config_with_vacuum.jpg?nolink&200 |}} 
 These 3 links give an overview of the capabilities and basic use of a router and table. These 3 links give an overview of the capabilities and basic use of a router and table.
  
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 [[http://youtu.be/spX2BpulREc|Setting Up and Using a Router Table - A Woodworkweb.com Woodworking Video]] [[http://youtu.be/spX2BpulREc|Setting Up and Using a Router Table - A Woodworkweb.com Woodworking Video]]
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl_standard_config_with_vacuum.jpg?nolink&200 |}}  +
 === Dust Extraction === === Dust Extraction ===
  
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   - Use a set square against the face of the fence to check it is square to the table. If necessary loosen the horizontal locking screws through the rear flange of the fence and adjust the vertical jacking screws in the braces until the fence is square, then re-tighten the locking screws   - Use a set square against the face of the fence to check it is square to the table. If necessary loosen the horizontal locking screws through the rear flange of the fence and adjust the vertical jacking screws in the braces until the fence is square, then re-tighten the locking screws
   - Adjust the two front braces together then the two rear braces together   - Adjust the two front braces together then the two rear braces together
-- //check fence squareness image//- see page 11 of the manual - Fig 14+{{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:rtbl-fig14.svg |}}
  
 Position when in use: Position when in use:
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 ** Check pressure fingers position ** ** Check pressure fingers position **
-See Figs 12 & 13 
   - Insert two Finger Posts (52) with Spacers (50) through the holes in the fence brackets and fit the Plastic Washers (51)   - Insert two Finger Posts (52) with Spacers (50) through the holes in the fence brackets and fit the Plastic Washers (51)
   - Insert the Bent Pressure Fingers (49) through the slots and tighten the knobs on top of the finger posts to tension them into position   - Insert the Bent Pressure Fingers (49) through the slots and tighten the knobs on top of the finger posts to tension them into position
   - Insert the remaining two finger posts through the preferred holes in the sliding insert, then fit the washers and Straight Fingers (48) before tightening   - Insert the remaining two finger posts through the preferred holes in the sliding insert, then fit the washers and Straight Fingers (48) before tightening
- 
   * The finger posts with spacers can also be fitted directly to the holes in the table for operations such as ‘Planing to Width’. The finger post spacers should be reversed when fitting to the table   * The finger posts with spacers can also be fitted directly to the holes in the table for operations such as ‘Planing to Width’. The finger post spacers should be reversed when fitting to the table
   * The bent and straight pressure fingers are interchangeable depending on the operation you are performing   * The bent and straight pressure fingers are interchangeable depending on the operation you are performing
 +
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:rtbl_standard_configuration.jpg?nolink&400 |}}
 +
 +
  
 === Changing Router Bits === === Changing Router Bits ===
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 **Steps** **Steps**
  
-  * There is an interlock that prevents the collet being lifted above the table whilst the router is switched on. Therefore before the collet can be lifted above the table this switch must be "off", log out of the lockout box before doing this. +  * There is an interlock that prevents the collet being lifted above the table whilst the router is switched on. Therefore before the collet can be lifted above the table this switch must be "off", this can be found on the left of the router motor under the table. 
-  * There is a switch on the router behind a transparent slide. This is under the table on the same side as the fence normally is  +  * There is a switch on the router motor behind a transparent slide, switching it off will allow the transparent switch cover to slide closed, disabling in the safety interlock. This is under the table on the same side as the fence normally is. 
-  * Use the handle/tool in the socket indicated in the video to raise the collect up+  * Use either the handle/tool in the socket indicated in the video or the main raise/lower controls on the router motor to raise the collet up 
 +  * The collet should lock (i.e. not be able to rotate) once the collet is raised above the router table 
 +  * This is an additional safety to ensure the router cannot be switched on when changing the router bit
   * Loosen using the 24 mm Spanner   * Loosen using the 24 mm Spanner
   * Put in router bit   * Put in router bit
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   * Lower collet    * Lower collet 
   * Remove the handle   * Remove the handle
-  * Once the bit has been changed and the collet is below the table then lockout box can be tapped and the switched pressed to "on" +  * Once the bit has been changed and the collet is below the table (and therefore able to rotate), slide the clear safety cover across the switch on the router motor back and switch it on 
 +  * the lockout box can now be tapped to enable the machine 
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:switch_on.jpg?nolink&200 |}} {{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:switch_off.jpg?nolink&200 |}}
  
 === Tips === === Tips ===
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   * When using narrow cutters or when working on small components, slide the MDF fence faces toward each other until they just clear the cutter. This provides maximum support for the workpiece, close to the cutter (Fig 16)   * When using narrow cutters or when working on small components, slide the MDF fence faces toward each other until they just clear the cutter. This provides maximum support for the workpiece, close to the cutter (Fig 16)
   * When using cutters larger than 25mm (approx. 1") diameter and less than 50mm (approx. 2") replace the small table insert with the larger size ( this is currently missing but there is an alternative in the biscuit joiner box)   * When using cutters larger than 25mm (approx. 1") diameter and less than 50mm (approx. 2") replace the small table insert with the larger size ( this is currently missing but there is an alternative in the biscuit joiner box)
 +
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig16.png?nolink&200 |}}
  
  
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 ==== EDGE REBATING ==== ==== EDGE REBATING ====
  
-**[Add Figs 17 & 18]** 
   * Edge rebates are generally performed using a straight cutter. If using a bearing guided rebate cutter, refer to ‘Edge Moulding’   * Edge rebates are generally performed using a straight cutter. If using a bearing guided rebate cutter, refer to ‘Edge Moulding’
   * Always fit the router fence when edge rebating   * Always fit the router fence when edge rebating
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        - Use a wooden straight edge along the fence face and rotate the cutter until its cutting edge is in the outermost position        - Use a wooden straight edge along the fence face and rotate the cutter until its cutting edge is in the outermost position
        - Adjust the fence until the front and rear scale readings are similar and the straight edge is touching the cutter, then lock the fence        - Adjust the fence until the front and rear scale readings are similar and the straight edge is touching the cutter, then lock the fence
 +
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_17.png?nolink&200 |}}
  
   * When rebating to match the thickness of a component (eg. a cabinet backing), use an offcut of that component to set up the cut as follows:   * When rebating to match the thickness of a component (eg. a cabinet backing), use an offcut of that component to set up the cut as follows:
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        - Place your offcut between the back flange of the fence and the micro-adjusters then tighten them into position (Fig 18)        - Place your offcut between the back flange of the fence and the micro-adjusters then tighten them into position (Fig 18)
        - Remove the offcut, re-position the fence back against the micro-adjusters and lock it        - Remove the offcut, re-position the fence back against the micro-adjusters and lock it
 +
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig18.png?nolink&200 |}}
    
   * When rebating to a required dimension, use the fence scales as a reference or use the micro-adjusters as follows:   * When rebating to a required dimension, use the fence scales as a reference or use the micro-adjusters as follows:
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 **WARNING:** For many trenching operations, the cutter cannot be guarded. Keep your hands well clear and never trail your fingers behind the workpiece **WARNING:** For many trenching operations, the cutter cannot be guarded. Keep your hands well clear and never trail your fingers behind the workpiece
  
-=== Trenching against a fence === //-update for our setup// +=== Trenching against a fence === 
- +
-**[Add Figs 19 & 20 - check first]**+
  
   * For trenches up to 100mm (4") in from the edge of a workpiece, the router table fence can be used   * For trenches up to 100mm (4") in from the edge of a workpiece, the router table fence can be used
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 === Planing on the router fence === === Planing on the router fence ===
- +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_25.png?nolink&200 |}}{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_26.png?nolink&200 |}}
-**[Add Figs 25 & 26]**+
   * Planing cuts of 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 & 2.5mm can be performed using combinations of the 1.0 & 1.5mm planing shims supplied   * Planing cuts of 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 & 2.5mm can be performed using combinations of the 1.0 & 1.5mm planing shims supplied
   * You can use your own shims to achieve other planing cuts   * You can use your own shims to achieve other planing cuts
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 === Planing a high face on the router fence === === Planing a high face on the router fence ===
  
-**[Add figs 27a & b]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_27a.png?nolink&200 |}}{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig27b.png?nolink&200 |}}
   * For high face work, remove the front guard and position the guard guide back behind the fence. The pressure finger assemblies must also be removed from the fence   * For high face work, remove the front guard and position the guard guide back behind the fence. The pressure finger assemblies must also be removed from the fence
   * High face cuts require two passes:    * High face cuts require two passes: 
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 === Using a planing jig === === Using a planing jig ===
- +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig30.png?nolink&200 |}}{{ :equipment:woodshop:rbl_fig31.png?nolink&200 |}}
-**[Add Figs 30 & 31]**+
   - To make a planing jig, cut two boards from 19mm sheet material to fit perfectly within the table slider opening   - To make a planing jig, cut two boards from 19mm sheet material to fit perfectly within the table slider opening
   - Rebate the edges of one board (the base board) to accommodate the slider tracks and ensure the jig sits flush with the table   - Rebate the edges of one board (the base board) to accommodate the slider tracks and ensure the jig sits flush with the table
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 === Using the router fence === === Using the router fence ===
  
-**[Add Fig 32]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig32.png?nolink&200 |}}
 It is always best to use two or three shallow passes rather than one deep pass to lessen the chance of tearout or splintering  It is always best to use two or three shallow passes rather than one deep pass to lessen the chance of tearout or splintering 
  
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 === Free-hand edge moulding === === Free-hand edge moulding ===
  
-**[Add Fig 33]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig33.png?nolink&200 |}}
 **WARNING:** Never attempt free-hand routing without a bearing or pilot guided cutter **WARNING:** Never attempt free-hand routing without a bearing or pilot guided cutter
   * Always use the guard as it makes the job safer; the integral lead-in and trail-out guides also make the job much easier   * Always use the guard as it makes the job safer; the integral lead-in and trail-out guides also make the job much easier
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 ==== END GRAIN WORK ==== ==== END GRAIN WORK ====
-**[Add Fig 34]**+**Currently not possible as we do not have a protractor**
   * Short edges, typically end grain, are not easily controlled  against the router fence and can often tearout at the completion of the cut. This can be overcome by using the protractor fitted with an extended wooden face as described in ‘Cross-trenching’   * Short edges, typically end grain, are not easily controlled  against the router fence and can often tearout at the completion of the cut. This can be overcome by using the protractor fitted with an extended wooden face as described in ‘Cross-trenching’
   * End grain work using the protractor can be performed with the fence fitted (see ‘Edge Rebating’), or with the guard fitted to the router plate (Fig 34)    * End grain work using the protractor can be performed with the fence fitted (see ‘Edge Rebating’), or with the guard fitted to the router plate (Fig 34) 
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 === Using a template guide === === Using a template guide ===
  
-**[Add Fig 35]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig35.png?nolink&200 |}}
   * Use the guard in the table mounted position whenever possible. If the guard cannot be fitted, due to the nature of the cut, take great care with your hand positions   * Use the guard in the table mounted position whenever possible. If the guard cannot be fitted, due to the nature of the cut, take great care with your hand positions
   * Templates are very useful for cleanly finishing the edges of curved or shaped components   * Templates are very useful for cleanly finishing the edges of curved or shaped components
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 {{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&200 |}} {{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&200 |}}
 +
  
   - Leave the machine set up ready for profile cutting with the router bit set **below** the height of the table. Fence and non-return pressure fingers in place.   - Leave the machine set up ready for profile cutting with the router bit set **below** the height of the table. Fence and non-return pressure fingers in place.
   - Clean and dust free.   - Clean and dust free.
 +
  
 **!!!REMEMBER TO LOG OUT ON THE RFID LOCKOUT BOX!!!** **!!!REMEMBER TO LOG OUT ON THE RFID LOCKOUT BOX!!!**
 +
  
 ==== Maintenance ==== ==== Maintenance ====
 The [[https://bristolhackspace.discourse.group/t/let-s-get-this-router-table-started/2245|maintenance thread for the router table on the forum]] is here. The [[https://bristolhackspace.discourse.group/t/let-s-get-this-router-table-started/2245|maintenance thread for the router table on the forum]] is here.
 If any parts are broken or missing, please report these on the forum. and if you are able to them please also repair or replace these. If any parts are broken or missing, please report these on the forum. and if you are able to them please also repair or replace these.
 +
 +
 +
 +
  
 ==== Known Issues ==== ==== Known Issues ====
  • equipment/woodshop/routertabletriton.1737918388
  • Last modified: 2 months ago
  • by kitkat