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equipment:woodshop:routertabletriton [2025/01/26 18:21] – kitkatequipment:woodshop:routertabletriton [2025/01/27 15:02] (current) – sammyc
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 <callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true"> This equipment requires the use of eye protection and hearing protection during use. Respiratory protection is recommended. Gloves must not be worn. </callout> <callout title="PPE Required" type="primary" icon="true"> This equipment requires the use of eye protection and hearing protection during use. Respiratory protection is recommended. Gloves must not be worn. </callout>
  
-{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&400 |}}  
  
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&400 |}}
 ===== Risks ===== ===== Risks =====
  
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 ===== Induction ===== ===== Induction =====
-Due to the risks to users and others this equipment will have a mandatory induction. This can be in-person or online, please use the forum to ask for an in-person induction or go to the Membership Portal PC to sign in and find the online induction. Once completed your card/fob will be authorised to unlock the RFID lockout box so the equipment can be switched on.+Due to the risks to users and others this equipment has a mandatory online induction. Go to the Membership Portal PC to sign in and find the online induction. Once completed your card/fob will be authorised to unlock the RFID lockout box so the equipment can be switched on.
  
 ====Specification==== ====Specification====
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   * Biscuit Jointer - Stored behind the beam to the left of the Router Table and behind the pillar drill   * Biscuit Jointer - Stored behind the beam to the left of the Router Table and behind the pillar drill
  
-{{:equipment:woodshop:routertable:img_20250126_165123.jpg?nolink&200|}} +{{:equipment:woodshop:routertable:img_20250126_165123.jpg?nolink&200|}} {{:equipment:woodshop:routertable:rtbl_bits_box.jpg?nolink&200|}} {{:equipment:woodshop:routertable:rtbl_biscuit_joiner.jpg?nolink&200|}} 
 + 
 +Missing Accessories include a protractor for angled work
  
 ==== Introduction ==== ==== Introduction ====
 +{{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl_standard_config_with_vacuum.jpg?nolink&200 |}} 
 These 3 links give an overview of the capabilities and basic use of a router and table. These 3 links give an overview of the capabilities and basic use of a router and table.
  
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 [[http://youtu.be/spX2BpulREc|Setting Up and Using a Router Table - A Woodworkweb.com Woodworking Video]] [[http://youtu.be/spX2BpulREc|Setting Up and Using a Router Table - A Woodworkweb.com Woodworking Video]]
-  + 
 === Dust Extraction === === Dust Extraction ===
  
   * The router table must be connected to the Hackspace extraction system or the woodshop vacuum until this is installed. This must be switched on before use.   * The router table must be connected to the Hackspace extraction system or the woodshop vacuum until this is installed. This must be switched on before use.
-  * If using the workshop vacuum - firmly plug the wand of the woodshop vacuum into the tapered hose adapter **[PIC to be included]**+  * If using the workshop vacuum - firmly plug the wand of the woodshop vacuum into the tapered hose adapter as in picture to the left
   * Ensure shavings do not build-up between the fences and your workpiece. Brush or blow away accumulated shavings after every few cuts, when the cutter has stopped spinning completely.   * Ensure shavings do not build-up between the fences and your workpiece. Brush or blow away accumulated shavings after every few cuts, when the cutter has stopped spinning completely.
  
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 === Standard configuration === === Standard configuration ===
  
-The standard set up should have the fence, guards, pressure fingers in place and therefore these should be checked before use. +The standard set up should have the fence, guards, pressure fingers in place and therefore these should be checked before use. Shown in picture to the left.
- +
-**[add image]**+
  
 === Check the fence, guards and pressure fingers === === Check the fence, guards and pressure fingers ===
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   - Use a set square against the face of the fence to check it is square to the table. If necessary loosen the horizontal locking screws through the rear flange of the fence and adjust the vertical jacking screws in the braces until the fence is square, then re-tighten the locking screws   - Use a set square against the face of the fence to check it is square to the table. If necessary loosen the horizontal locking screws through the rear flange of the fence and adjust the vertical jacking screws in the braces until the fence is square, then re-tighten the locking screws
   - Adjust the two front braces together then the two rear braces together   - Adjust the two front braces together then the two rear braces together
-- //check fence squareness image//- see page 11 of the manual - Fig 14+{{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:rtbl-fig14.svg |}}
  
 Position when in use: Position when in use:
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 ** Check pressure fingers position ** ** Check pressure fingers position **
-See Figs 12 & 13 
   - Insert two Finger Posts (52) with Spacers (50) through the holes in the fence brackets and fit the Plastic Washers (51)   - Insert two Finger Posts (52) with Spacers (50) through the holes in the fence brackets and fit the Plastic Washers (51)
   - Insert the Bent Pressure Fingers (49) through the slots and tighten the knobs on top of the finger posts to tension them into position   - Insert the Bent Pressure Fingers (49) through the slots and tighten the knobs on top of the finger posts to tension them into position
   - Insert the remaining two finger posts through the preferred holes in the sliding insert, then fit the washers and Straight Fingers (48) before tightening   - Insert the remaining two finger posts through the preferred holes in the sliding insert, then fit the washers and Straight Fingers (48) before tightening
- 
   * The finger posts with spacers can also be fitted directly to the holes in the table for operations such as ‘Planing to Width’. The finger post spacers should be reversed when fitting to the table   * The finger posts with spacers can also be fitted directly to the holes in the table for operations such as ‘Planing to Width’. The finger post spacers should be reversed when fitting to the table
   * The bent and straight pressure fingers are interchangeable depending on the operation you are performing   * The bent and straight pressure fingers are interchangeable depending on the operation you are performing
  
-=== Check the protractor scale and adjustments === +{{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:rtbl_standard_configuration.jpg?nolink&400 |}}
-**Adjusting the protractor** +
-See Figs 12 & 15+
  
-  - Fit the Protractor (3) to the preferred holes in the MDF slider and tighten the small knobs on the locating bosses until they are a snug fit. If the knobs are too tight to turn by hand a small spanner can be used. 
-  - With the knobs fully tightened the protractor cannot be removed (Fig 12) 
  
-**Checking the protractor scale** 
-  - Loosen the adjustment knob and line the edge of the protractor up with the aluminium inner track 
-  - Check that the scale pointer is at 90°. If necessary, loosen the central clamping screw and adjust the position of the metal scale plate until it reads 90° (Fig 15) 
  
-When in use: +=== Changing Router Bits ===
-  * The protractor can fit in any of the three pairs of holes in the MDF slider. In most cases the protractor will be used following the workpiece +
-  * An extended wooden face should be fitted to the protractor to support the workpiece close to the cutter. By also trimming the wooden face as it passes the cutter, tear-out in the workpiece will be prevented +
-  * The holes for mounting the wooden face are slotted to allow re-trimming+
  
-=== Changing Router Bits ===+**NOTE The tool for raising and lowering the collet is currently broken or missing - 26-01-2025**
  
 == 1/2" and 12mm Collets == == 1/2" and 12mm Collets ==
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 **Tools required:** **Tools required:**
   * 24mm Spanner - only use the router spanner or a 24mm open ended spanner. Not an adjustable spanner, not grips, not any other system   * 24mm Spanner - only use the router spanner or a 24mm open ended spanner. Not an adjustable spanner, not grips, not any other system
 +  * Tool for adjusting the height of the collet
  
 **Steps** **Steps**
  
-  * There is an interlock that prevents the collet being lifted above the table whilst the router is switched on. Therefore before the collet can be lifted above the table this switch must be "off" +  * There is an interlock that prevents the collet being lifted above the table whilst the router is switched on. Therefore before the collet can be lifted above the table this switch must be "off", this can be found on the left of the router motor under the table. 
-  * There is a switch on the router behind a transparent slide. This is under the table on the same side as the fence normally is - see video. +  * There is a switch on the router motor behind a transparent slide, switching it off will allow the transparent switch cover to slide closed, disabling in the safety interlock. This is under the table on the same side as the fence normally is. 
-  * Use the handle/tool in the socket indicated in the video to raise the collect up+  * Use either the handle/tool in the socket indicated in the video or the main raise/lower controls on the router motor to raise the collet up 
 +  * The collet should lock (i.e. not be able to rotate) once the collet is raised above the router table 
 +  * This is an additional safety to ensure the router cannot be switched on when changing the router bit
   * Loosen using the 24 mm Spanner   * Loosen using the 24 mm Spanner
   * Put in router bit   * Put in router bit
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   * Lower collet    * Lower collet 
   * Remove the handle   * Remove the handle
-  * Once the bit has been changed and the collet is below the table then this transparent cover can be slid back and the switched pressed to "on" - see video  +  * Once the bit has been changed and the collet is below the table (and therefore able to rotate), slide the clear safety cover across the switch on the router motor back and switch it on 
- +  * the lockout box can now be tapped to enable the machine 
-**Video**   //- to be replaced with better quality and uploaded to the wiki directly, make sure the guard is in place// +{{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:switch_on.jpg?nolink&200 |}} {{ :equipment:woodshop:routertable:switch_off.jpg?nolink&200 |}}
-{{youtube>FPy79Y_ZYQE}}+
  
 === Tips === === Tips ===
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   * It is always best to do a test run first on an offcut of the material you will be working with, to ensure the desired cut is achieved   * It is always best to do a test run first on an offcut of the material you will be working with, to ensure the desired cut is achieved
   * When using narrow cutters or when working on small components, slide the MDF fence faces toward each other until they just clear the cutter. This provides maximum support for the workpiece, close to the cutter (Fig 16)   * When using narrow cutters or when working on small components, slide the MDF fence faces toward each other until they just clear the cutter. This provides maximum support for the workpiece, close to the cutter (Fig 16)
-  * When using cutters larger than 25mm (approx. 1") diameter and less than 50mm (approx. 2") replace the small table insert with the larger size +  * When using cutters larger than 25mm (approx. 1") diameter and less than 50mm (approx. 2") replace the small table insert with the larger size ( this is currently missing but there is an alternative in the biscuit joiner box) 
-  * If the power switch on your router does not permanently lock on, use tape or a releasable cable tie to hold the switch on during operation. Alternatively a trigger strap (part no. AGA001) can be ordered through your local Triton stockist+ 
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig16.png?nolink&200 |}}
  
  
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   * Sharp cutters are essential for clean cuts, free of burn marks and tearout   * Sharp cutters are essential for clean cuts, free of burn marks and tearout
   * We do not recommend high speed steel bits because they generally do not retain their sharp edges for long   * We do not recommend high speed steel bits because they generally do not retain their sharp edges for long
-  * We recommend that you purchase tungsten carbide tipped router cutters. Tungsten carbide is the hardest commercially available cutting edge material+  * From Manual. We recommend that you purchase tungsten carbide tipped router cutters. Tungsten carbide is the hardest commercially available cutting edge material
   * When profile cutting or edge trimming, look for bits which have a ball bearing pilot on top. Bits which have an integral pilot (i.e. no ball bearing race) can burn or mark the work   * When profile cutting or edge trimming, look for bits which have a ball bearing pilot on top. Bits which have an integral pilot (i.e. no ball bearing race) can burn or mark the work
 +  * Bits can be found in the bits for the Router table on the shelf under the wood working table, see images above under accessories
  
 ==== EDGE REBATING ==== ==== EDGE REBATING ====
  
-**[Add Figs 17 & 18]** 
   * Edge rebates are generally performed using a straight cutter. If using a bearing guided rebate cutter, refer to ‘Edge Moulding’   * Edge rebates are generally performed using a straight cutter. If using a bearing guided rebate cutter, refer to ‘Edge Moulding’
   * Always fit the router fence when edge rebating   * Always fit the router fence when edge rebating
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        - Use a wooden straight edge along the fence face and rotate the cutter until its cutting edge is in the outermost position        - Use a wooden straight edge along the fence face and rotate the cutter until its cutting edge is in the outermost position
        - Adjust the fence until the front and rear scale readings are similar and the straight edge is touching the cutter, then lock the fence        - Adjust the fence until the front and rear scale readings are similar and the straight edge is touching the cutter, then lock the fence
 +
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_17.png?nolink&200 |}}
  
   * When rebating to match the thickness of a component (eg. a cabinet backing), use an offcut of that component to set up the cut as follows:   * When rebating to match the thickness of a component (eg. a cabinet backing), use an offcut of that component to set up the cut as follows:
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        - Place your offcut between the back flange of the fence and the micro-adjusters then tighten them into position (Fig 18)        - Place your offcut between the back flange of the fence and the micro-adjusters then tighten them into position (Fig 18)
        - Remove the offcut, re-position the fence back against the micro-adjusters and lock it        - Remove the offcut, re-position the fence back against the micro-adjusters and lock it
 +
 +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig18.png?nolink&200 |}}
    
   * When rebating to a required dimension, use the fence scales as a reference or use the micro-adjusters as follows:   * When rebating to a required dimension, use the fence scales as a reference or use the micro-adjusters as follows:
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        - Tighten the micro-adjusters in position against the rear of the fence and screw the thumbwheels in to obtain the required rebate amount. One complete turn is 1.0mm and calibrations are marked every 0.2mm. (1⁄32" = 0.8mm, 1⁄16" = 1.6mm, 1⁄8" = 3.2mm, 1⁄4" = 6.4mm)        - Tighten the micro-adjusters in position against the rear of the fence and screw the thumbwheels in to obtain the required rebate amount. One complete turn is 1.0mm and calibrations are marked every 0.2mm. (1⁄32" = 0.8mm, 1⁄16" = 1.6mm, 1⁄8" = 3.2mm, 1⁄4" = 6.4mm)
        - Unlock the fence, move it back against the microadjusters and re-lock        - Unlock the fence, move it back against the microadjusters and re-lock
-       - For short edges, the fence should only be used to set the rebate depth; use the protractor to guide the workpiece (See ‘Cross-trenching’). The fence must be set exactly parallel for this operation+       - For short edges, the fence should only be used to set the rebate depth; use the protractor to guide the workpiece**- currently missing** (See ‘Cross-trenching’). The fence must be set exactly parallel for this operation
  
 ==== TRENCHING ==== ==== TRENCHING ====
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 **WARNING:** For many trenching operations, the cutter cannot be guarded. Keep your hands well clear and never trail your fingers behind the workpiece **WARNING:** For many trenching operations, the cutter cannot be guarded. Keep your hands well clear and never trail your fingers behind the workpiece
  
-=== Trenching against a fence === //-update for our setup// +=== Trenching against a fence === 
- +
-**[Add Figs 19 & 20 - check first]**+
  
   * For trenches up to 100mm (4") in from the edge of a workpiece, the router table fence can be used   * For trenches up to 100mm (4") in from the edge of a workpiece, the router table fence can be used
   * Set your router to the desired rebate depth and lock your fence at the required setting. Feed the workpiece smoothly through the cutter and against the fence, whilst keeping it pressed down evenly against the table   * Set your router to the desired rebate depth and lock your fence at the required setting. Feed the workpiece smoothly through the cutter and against the fence, whilst keeping it pressed down evenly against the table
    
-=== Cross-trenching === +**Cross trenching is currently not possible on this equipment as the protractor is missing**
- +
-**[Add Figs 21 - 23]** +
-  * Cross-trenches up to 200mm (8") long can be performed with the protractor following the workpiece +
-  * Attach a wooden batten with screws through the keyholes in the face of the protractor and extend it past the cutter +
-  * Run the batten through the cutter to create a sighting notch and to prevent tear-out in the workpiece (Fig 21) +
- +
-=== Stopped Cross-trenches === +
- +
-**[Add Fig 24]** +
-  * Stopped trenches can be achieved on the MDF slider by placing suitable length spacer boards in front and behind the slider to limit its travel +
-  * Cross-trenches which are stopped at both ends require the work to be plunged onto the cutter.  +
-  * When completing a stopped trench never drag your workpiece back with the router still running. Switch it off and wait for the cutter to stop spinning+
  
 === PLANING === === PLANING ===
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 === Planing on the router fence === === Planing on the router fence ===
- +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_25.png?nolink&200 |}}{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_26.png?nolink&200 |}}
-**[Add Figs 25 & 26]**+
   * Planing cuts of 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 & 2.5mm can be performed using combinations of the 1.0 & 1.5mm planing shims supplied   * Planing cuts of 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 & 2.5mm can be performed using combinations of the 1.0 & 1.5mm planing shims supplied
   * You can use your own shims to achieve other planing cuts   * You can use your own shims to achieve other planing cuts
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 === Planing a high face on the router fence === === Planing a high face on the router fence ===
  
-**[Add figs 27a & b]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig_27a.png?nolink&200 |}}{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig27b.png?nolink&200 |}}
   * For high face work, remove the front guard and position the guard guide back behind the fence. The pressure finger assemblies must also be removed from the fence   * For high face work, remove the front guard and position the guard guide back behind the fence. The pressure finger assemblies must also be removed from the fence
   * High face cuts require two passes:    * High face cuts require two passes: 
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 === Using a planing jig === === Using a planing jig ===
- +{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig30.png?nolink&200 |}}{{ :equipment:woodshop:rbl_fig31.png?nolink&200 |}}
-**[Add Figs 30 & 31]**+
   - To make a planing jig, cut two boards from 19mm sheet material to fit perfectly within the table slider opening   - To make a planing jig, cut two boards from 19mm sheet material to fit perfectly within the table slider opening
   - Rebate the edges of one board (the base board) to accommodate the slider tracks and ensure the jig sits flush with the table   - Rebate the edges of one board (the base board) to accommodate the slider tracks and ensure the jig sits flush with the table
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 === Using the router fence === === Using the router fence ===
  
-**[Add Fig 32]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig32.png?nolink&200 |}}
 It is always best to use two or three shallow passes rather than one deep pass to lessen the chance of tearout or splintering  It is always best to use two or three shallow passes rather than one deep pass to lessen the chance of tearout or splintering 
  
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 === Free-hand edge moulding === === Free-hand edge moulding ===
  
-**[Add Fig 33]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig33.png?nolink&200 |}}
 **WARNING:** Never attempt free-hand routing without a bearing or pilot guided cutter **WARNING:** Never attempt free-hand routing without a bearing or pilot guided cutter
   * Always use the guard as it makes the job safer; the integral lead-in and trail-out guides also make the job much easier   * Always use the guard as it makes the job safer; the integral lead-in and trail-out guides also make the job much easier
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 ==== END GRAIN WORK ==== ==== END GRAIN WORK ====
-**[Add Fig 34]**+**Currently not possible as we do not have a protractor**
   * Short edges, typically end grain, are not easily controlled  against the router fence and can often tearout at the completion of the cut. This can be overcome by using the protractor fitted with an extended wooden face as described in ‘Cross-trenching’   * Short edges, typically end grain, are not easily controlled  against the router fence and can often tearout at the completion of the cut. This can be overcome by using the protractor fitted with an extended wooden face as described in ‘Cross-trenching’
   * End grain work using the protractor can be performed with the fence fitted (see ‘Edge Rebating’), or with the guard fitted to the router plate (Fig 34)    * End grain work using the protractor can be performed with the fence fitted (see ‘Edge Rebating’), or with the guard fitted to the router plate (Fig 34) 
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 === Using a template guide === === Using a template guide ===
  
-**[Add Fig 35]**+{{ :equipment:woodshop:rtbl_fig35.png?nolink&200 |}}
   * Use the guard in the table mounted position whenever possible. If the guard cannot be fitted, due to the nature of the cut, take great care with your hand positions   * Use the guard in the table mounted position whenever possible. If the guard cannot be fitted, due to the nature of the cut, take great care with your hand positions
   * Templates are very useful for cleanly finishing the edges of curved or shaped components   * Templates are very useful for cleanly finishing the edges of curved or shaped components
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 ===== Clean up ===== ===== Clean up =====
  
-**[Add Photo of correct clean set up]**+{{:equipment:woodshop:rtbl.jpg?nolink&200 |}} 
  
   - Leave the machine set up ready for profile cutting with the router bit set **below** the height of the table. Fence and non-return pressure fingers in place.   - Leave the machine set up ready for profile cutting with the router bit set **below** the height of the table. Fence and non-return pressure fingers in place.
   - Clean and dust free.   - Clean and dust free.
 +
  
 **!!!REMEMBER TO LOG OUT ON THE RFID LOCKOUT BOX!!!** **!!!REMEMBER TO LOG OUT ON THE RFID LOCKOUT BOX!!!**
 +
  
 ==== Maintenance ==== ==== Maintenance ====
 The [[https://bristolhackspace.discourse.group/t/let-s-get-this-router-table-started/2245|maintenance thread for the router table on the forum]] is here. The [[https://bristolhackspace.discourse.group/t/let-s-get-this-router-table-started/2245|maintenance thread for the router table on the forum]] is here.
 If any parts are broken or missing, please report these on the forum. and if you are able to them please also repair or replace these. If any parts are broken or missing, please report these on the forum. and if you are able to them please also repair or replace these.
 +
 +
 +
 +
  
 ==== Known Issues ==== ==== Known Issues ====
  • equipment/woodshop/routertabletriton.1737915701
  • Last modified: 2 months ago
  • by kitkat