Embroidery Machine - Brother Innov-is 750e

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====== Embroidery Machine - Brother Innov-is 750e  ======

<callout title="Online Induction Required" type="danger" icon="true"> This equipment requires an online induction prior to use. For your own safety and to avoid damage to the equipment do not attempt to use it until you have been inducted. </callout>

<callout title="Sharps Hazard" type="warning" icon="true"> This equipment has a sharp needle.  Please take care, and keep hands away when the machine is running. Please dispose of used needles in the sharps bin.</callout>

==== Summary ==== 

//Ever wanted to make your own patches or add embroidery to your own clothes?//

This machine is designed to embroider patterns onto fabrics. You can either use the built in patterns and fonts to add embroidery to fabric or patch material or you can use Inkscape with Inkstitch extension to create your own designs and transfer the PES files to the machine with a USB.

The machine is found on the shelf above the craft table.
{{ :equipment:craft:embroidery_machine.jpg?nolink&400 |}}

This page is split into three sections: [[#Basic operation|Basic operation]], [[#Patches/Badges making|embroidering patches and badges]] and [[#Digitising designs for patches/badges|creating your own designs using Inkstitch]].  

Links to the {{brother_innovis_750e_operation_manual.pdf|user guide}} and {{borther_innovis_750e_quick_reference_guide.pdf|quick reference guide}} in the text below should take you to the appropriate page of the manual.

==== Basic operation ====

<callout title="Needle types" type="info" icon="true"> Use a specialist embroidery needle as these have a particular shape that fits around the rotary hook. The standard size is 75/11, the brand we have been advised is Schmetz GOLD Embroidery 130/705 H-ET 75/11, these are currently provided by Hackspace, if we are running low please request more on the forum in the consumables thread. When embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use a 90/14 Schmetz GOLD Embroidery also do a version of this. If you are embroidering a knitted fabric (such as t-shirt material), you should use a ball point needle.</callout>

=== Before turning the machine on ===

Before you turn the machine on you should check that the embroidery hoop is not attached to the machine.  The embroidery carriage moves when the machine is turned on, and can hit the hoop causing damage.  You should also check there is nothing around the machine that the carriage could hit.

The needle should be changed before use, as blunt needles can cause damage.  This should only be done when the machine is turned off.

To change the needle:

  - Make sure the needle is in the raised position (if necessary, turn the machine on, and press the needle position button to raise the needle, then turn the machine off again)
  - Place some paper or fabric over the hole below the needle
  - Lower the presser foot
  - Hold the needle with one hand, and unscrew the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver
  - Remove the old needle and dispose of in the sharps bin (this is on the left electronics workbench)
  - Get a new needle of the correct gauge and type for the fabric you will be embroidering (see below)
  - Check the needle isn't bent
  - Make sure the flat side of the top of the needle faces **towards the rear of the machine**, and insert it until it reaches the needle stopper
  - Tighten the needle clamp screw

Full details and diagrams are given on {{brother_innovis_750e_operation_manual.pdf#page=38|page 38 of the user guide}}

=== Choosing or loading a pattern ===

You can load a pattern from USB, or use one of the inbuilt designs.  

{{ :equipment:craft:selecting_design_on_machine.jpg?nolink&400 |}}

{{brother_innovis_750e_operation_manual.pdf#page=51|Page 51 of the user guide}} shows how to select an inbuilt design. The quick reference guide shows the {{borther_innovis_750e_quick_reference_guide.pdf?page=11|inbult fonts}} and {{borther_innovis_750e_quick_reference_guide.pdf?page=14|patterns}}.

Once you have selected a pattern, the display will show you a preview of where it will be embroidered, and the size of hoops that the pattern will fit in:

{{ :equipment:craft:position_design_on_fabric.jpg?nolink&400 |}}

In the image above, the two largest hoops are suitable, the smallest is not (it is shown with a dotted line)

The design can be moved, flipped and rotated on this screen too.


=== Winding the bobbin and loading the bobbin thread ===

You will need to wind a bobbin for the lower thread.  This thread shouldn't show on the good side of the work, so the colour isn't important.   The bobbin winder on the machine doesn't work, so you will need to use one of the other sewing machines in the hackspace.  This will wind the bobbin with the correct tension. 

Once you've wound the bobbin, you can install it in the machine.  The machine has an animated help screen showing how to do this.  Press the help button on the lower right of the control panel, then press the bobbin installation icon on the top right of the illuminated touch screen.  The {{borther_innovis_750e_quick_reference_guide.pdf?page=5|quick reference guide also shows how to do this}} (step 19 onwards). Make sure that the bobbin will rotate anti-clockwise as the thread is used (i.e. it's coming off the left hand side of the bobbin), and that the thread passes through the tension spring on the bobbin case.  You don't need to pull up the bobbin thread using the upper thread like on a conventional sewing machine.  


=== Threading the upper thread ===

Thread-up the machine using the first colour of your pattern. Pressing the help button on the control panel, followed by the upper left icon on the touch screen will show you an animated guide to threading the machine.  The {{borther_innovis_750e_quick_reference_guide.pdf?page=6|quick reference guide also shows how to do this}}.   When threading the machine:

  * Make sure the presser foot is raised before you start threading the machine
  * The needle is raised (press the needle button above the illuminated start button if it is not)
  * If you're using a large roll of thread with the 3d printed stand, make sure the thread can flow freely into the machine
  * If you're using a small roll of thread inside the machine, make sure the spool cap is wider than the diameter of the roll of thread
  * Lower the presser foot before using the automatic needle threader.  
  * Don't force the automatic needle threader.  If it won't work, you can thread the needle by hand (the thread goes from front to back)
  * Raise the presser foot after threading the needle and put the end of the thread through the hole in the foot

<callout title="Thread supplies" type="info" icon="true">The hackspace has large spools of embroidery thread in many colours, kept in the black drawers by the craft bench. These should be used with the 3d printed stand. If you’re using your other threads, please check the user guide for suitability. Old thread is likely to snap. If you find the thread is breaking repeatedly, please don’t continue to use it. It will give a poor result to your work and may damage the machine.</callout>

=== Setting up and installing the embroidery frame ===

Choose an appropriate size frame for your design.  Frames that are too small are shown with a dotted line on the placement screen. Unless you're embroidering multiple pieces on the same bit of fabric, it's best to use the smallest frame that will fit, as this will minimise wastage of stabiliser material.  

<callout title="Stabiliser material" type="info" icon="true">Putting stabliser material under your fabric is important to get a good finish on your work, and to reduce the risk of needle breakage and damage to the machine.   You should always use stabliser material.  Various types are available online.  Locally, Fabricland in Broadmead sell tear-off and water soluble stabliser.</callout>

Cut out a piece of stabiliser a few cm bigger than the frame you're using.  Place this on the outer hoop with the small triangle on the rim of the frame facing upwards.  Lay the fabric you're going to embroider on top of the stabiliser (good side up), and then place the inner ring on top.  The small triangle on the inner ring should align with the one on the outer ring.  Push the inner frame into the fabric, and tighten the bolt.  You may need to stretch the fabric gently while you do this; the aim is that the fabric is held taut in the frame and should have a drum like sound if you tap the fabric.

If you require precise placement of the embroidery piece, you can use the embroidery sheets included with the frames to {{brother_innovis_750e_operation_manual.pdf#page=45|precisely align the position}}.

Once you have prepared the frame, you can attach it to the machine.  To do this:

  * Make sure the needle is up (press the needle button if it is not)
  * Raise the presser foot
  * Lift and hold the presser foot lever even higher
  * Carefully slide the frame under the foot, avoiding the needle
  * Hold the lever on frame holder to the left, and align the pins on the frame to the frame holder. 
  * Push the frame onto the holder, checking both pins have engaged
  * Move the lever back to the left

Removal is the reverse of installation.

Once you've installed the frame, it's a good idea to check that the embroidery will appear where you expect.  To do this, press the starting point key on the preview screen twice (a needle to the left of a dotted square).  The frame will move showing the extents of the embroidery piece.

=== Embroidering the pattern ===

With the frame installed, lower the embroidery foot.  The illuminated start button should change from red to green. Press this to start embroidering. Pressing this again will pause the process.


<callout title="Trimming the thread" type="tip" icon="true">It's a good idea to pause after a few stiches have been made, so that you can trim the loose end of the upper thread with scissors.  This prevents it getting sewn into the pattern, which looks a mess and is difficult to remove.  The thread cutter in the machine doesn't work, so you may also want to do this when the machine jumps between one area and another.</callout>

The machine will prompt you when to change thread colour.  Only the upper thread needs to be changed, as the lower thread shouldn't be visible on the good side of the work. If it is, see [[#Adjusting thread tension|adjusting thread tension]].

==== Troubleshooting ====

=== Running out of thread ===

If you run out of either the upper or bobbin thread the machine will detect this and stop.  Replenish the thread, and press the ad-just button on the touch screen.  You can then step back a few stitches to re-sew the missing stitches and continue.  This is described in more detail in the {{brother_innovis_750e_operation_manual.pdf#page=65|user guide}}.

=== Upper thread snaps ===

**This should only happen rarely, if ever**. If the thread does snap please work out what's gone wrong rather than keep resuming the piece and hoping it will fix itself.

You should check:

  * That the machine is correctly threaded (upper and bobbin threads)
  * That the upper thread can come off its roll freely (either from the thread holder in the top of the machine with a spool cap that is larger than the roll's diameter, or the 3d printed holder if using a large roll of thread)
  * That the thread isn't old and fragile
  * You're using the right type and size of needle for the fabric you're using, and that the needle isn't blunt or bent
  * The upper [[#adjusting thread tension|thread tension is correctly set]]
  * That the stitch density isn't too high.  This means that your pattern is trying to stitch repeatedly in the same place. See [[#Digitising designs for patches/badges|the section on making your own designs]]
  * That the fabric is correctly attached to the frame and is taut.

=== Tangles (birds' nests) below the fabric ===

This can be caused by a blunt needle, or by incorrect tension.  If these don't fix things, it may be the needle timing. The machine may need timing to be checked by experienced user or serviced.

=== Puckering === 

This can be caused by movement of fabric due to it not being hooped correctly or the type of stabiliser is not correct for the fabric being used.
Also check the upper thread tension.
If you're using your own design, check for digitiser issues (choice of underlay settings may be unsuitable for stabilising fabric, the angle of the stitches in the fill areas, the density of the stitching in the fill areas the order of which fill areas are stitch (start in the middle and work outwards)). Helpful video on this: [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cqV-rXPcMg]]

==== Adjusting thread tension ====

Setting the correct thread tension ensures that the bobbin thread cannot be seen on the good side of the work, and that the stitches are tight.  Usually only the upper thread tension needs to be adjusted.

If the upper thread tension is too tight, the lower thread will be visible on the good side of the work. To reduce this, press the settings key on the control panel and press the minus key to reduce the thread tension.

If the upper thread tension is too loose, the stitches will be slack.  You can increase the tension with the plus key.

The bobbin thread tension was set when the machine was serviced, and is unlikely to need adjustment. If, exceptionally, you need to adjust the bobbin thread tension, please:

  * **Do not adjust the cross head screw on the bobbin holder**  This doesn't adjust the tension and may damage the bobbin holder
  * Take a photo of the position of the flat head screw before changing it, and put it back to its orginal position after
  * Make gradual adjustments (30 degrees or so) and check the tension after each adjustment.
  * Turning the screw clockwise increases the tension


==== Demo Video ====

{{youtube>k1mliIUqopU?medium}}


==== Tips ====

Do a small test piece using the same fabric, stabliser and thread before starting a large piece of work.  This will let you check the tension is correct and that everything is working properly. Youtube video on it: [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR5TOaJ5mLs&t=43s]]


If you press the ? button on the machine, it will take you step by step through the loading process.

You may want to press the green button to pause the needle so that loose threads can be cut or removed as you go along to prevent them getting embedded in your design.

Helpful beginners video: [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Akr8M7b1Uk]]



==== Consumables and Spare Parts ====

**Needle**
Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When
embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use
a 90/14 home sewing machine needle.
Memo

**Embroidery frames**
There are now multiple frames available in the hackspace, each with a guide on the embroidery area and holes to mark fabric to make sure everything is in line
  * Small - 25mm x 60mm
  * Medium - 100mm x 100mm
  * Large - 130mm x 180mm
  * Extra Large multi-position 130mm x 300mm
{{ :equipment:craft:embroidery_hoops.jpg?nolink&400 |}}


==== Patches/Badges making ====

This is the suggested workflow that I have found works for patches that require no-minimal cutting.


=== Materials ===

Termogarza – available in black  and white, you make your design directly on to this, has a more fabric like feel as you are making it, requires heat via iron or heat plate to begin to disintegrate the fabric. Comes away in pieces. 
Supplier: [[https://shop.madeira.co.uk/heat-dissolvable-backing-170cm-x-1m_termogarza-white-xxx-xxx.htm ]]

B-Film or Badge film can be used as one or two layers, without additional fabric and will also dissolve on the application of heat 
Supplier: [[https://shop.madeira.co.uk/search/backing-topping--applique-fabrics/topping-and-speciality-backing/other-specialist-backings/madeirasbfilm-100mic-100cmx1m_035asb-m-xxx-xxx.htm]]
Or from UK supplier for non-commercial customers: [[https://www.barnyarns.co.uk/madeira-b-film-heat-dissovable-fabric-100-micron-50cm-wide-per-meter.html]] 

Guide from Maderia UK on B-film [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cliEeeEUjLw]]

Basic Patch workflow:
  - Create a design/modify or use a design specifically for patches and b-film - see suggested parameters below - these may be different for different designs
  - Cut two pieces of “B”-film – rough sides together
  - Hoop and place in machine
  - Embroider first underlay, horizontal fill stitch approximately 2mm apart
  - Second underlay, vertical fill stitch approximately 2mm apart (change angle to 90 degrees)
  - For design start on large central parts and work outwards
  - Horizontal fill stitch normal density 0.4mm - I found 0.25-0.3mm worked better for my smaller design
  - Then details on this filled parts
  - Then outer fill stitch
  - Badge details class 40 thread,
  - Complete remaining background stitching
  - Fill Stitch 0.37-0.4mm standard density - I found 0.25-0.3mm worked better for my smaller design
  - Add final details and text
  - Zig zag border underlay, make sure fill stitch by 50%
  - Embroider satin stitch border 3-4mm density approx. 0.32mm
  - Once complete remove from hoop
  - Peel off excess film
  - Iron or heat press between 120C -140C for a few seconds to remove backing – this can take longer on the heat press in Hackspace

To add iron on backing:
  - Also create outline of the pattern in running stitch
  - Hoop the iron on backing 
  - Stitch the outline
  - Remove from hoop
  - Remove the surface of the backing
  - Place patch in outline (optional use spray adhesive to keep in place)
  - Use heat press to secure in place (temperature and time dependent on backing) (Leaving the protective film on where the patch isn’t should prevent the iron on backing from sticking to the heat press/iron and leave it to be used later – but will depend on type of iron on backing)
  - Cut out patch


==== Digitising designs for patches/badges ====

As mentioned above I've used Inkscape with the Inkstitch add-on, its not the best software in the world for this as most other embroidery software allows you to place individual stitches ( useful on the finer details and lettering) and allows you to quickly changes settings to parts of the design i.e. satin stitch width or the type of fabric being used. But unlike those pieces of software Inkstitch is free.

Inkstitch have a workflow here: [[https://inkstitch.org/docs/workflow/]]. There is also easy access to each of the stitch/fill types etc and a lot of useful information.


<callout title="Inkstitch on Linux" type="info" icon="true">If you're running Inkstitch on Linux, using Wayland, you'll need to start inkscape using:
export GDK_BACKEND=x11 && inkscape
</callout>

If you are working off a design or logo that is already created two methods I have found work reasonably well:
  -   Import the image, make it transparent/less opaque,then manually draw in your filled out sections, and then the outlines. Make sure you are happy with the overall design including line width etc and save this copy. 
  -   Import the image, right click on the image and press 'Trace to bitmap'. There are several options to help create the various layers that will be need for the design. Single scan with brightness cutoff will help with the overall outline. Multi-colour with Colours detection mode will help pull out the other colours. You may need to play around with the settings depending on the quality and simplicity of the original image. But you should be able to quickly pull out the basic shapes and outlines instead of having to manually redraw the entire image. You may need to edit the shapes and outlines. Make sure you are happy with the overall design including line width etc and save this copy.

From either one of these approaches save your finished design and keep a copy in case modifications need to be made to line width etc.

  *   Create a new version from which the shapes will be converted to stitches. 
  *   On each fill shape go to Extension>Inkstitch>Params and see how the section is filled. 
  *   Is the underlay suitable, row width etc, is it embroidering in the order expected? 
  *   Is the fill pattern what you want? 
  *   With the outlines, you will need to convert the line to a satin stitch ( assuming that is the type of stitch the are looking for). This will convert your line to two lines roughly the width of the final satin stitch with rungs across it. You can change the parallel lines to match the shape of the satin stitch you want. The rungs are more for the angle of the stitch. You will want you satin stitch to be roughly 50% in your fill area and outside of it. Zigzag underlay is also very useful for keeping the satin stitch more reproducible.
  * Consider the order of the layers which parts you would like to be embroidered first
  * Lettering works best using the inbuilt inkstitch lettering
  * It will take a few iterations to get the design finalised.

Check that you're not repeatedly stitching the same place.  This can cause issues with thread snapping and needles breaking, as the embroidery can become too thick for the machine to pierce.

These videos have been helpful: Part 1 [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPaGwjwpzWc]], Part 2 [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WPSHcJ03gI]]