Inductions for the 3D printers are now available on the member portal (right-hand PC by the electronics bench). Tap your card/keyfob on the reader, select “Manage machine inductions”, and take the 3D printer quiz. You will be shown the padlock code on successful completion.
Print file format: bgcode or gcode - bgcode will load and start printing faster
Change the print in settings to Prusa XL
General usage and safety rules are the same as the other printers.
However with regards to filament the loading and unloading is slightly different as there are 5 lines.
Standard settings: 1st colour, 2nd supports. These can be modified in the settings. You can use different types of filament within reason but consider the heat of the bed. Always make sure the filament in each line matches that in the software.
All Hackspace 3D printers use 1.75mm filament. Most filaments such as PLA, ABS, PETG, FLEX etc are supported. Do not use filaments that require a nozzle temperature above 285°C such as polycarbonate. Abrasive filaments can be used on toolhead 1 as it has an ObXidian nozzle, but printing them on any other toolhead will wear down and break the brass nozzles. Examples of abrasive filaments are CF / GF filaments, wood and metal filaments, and glow in the dark filaments. Please also structure your multi-material prints to avoid printing with the brass nozzles on top of an abrasive filament.
If you are starting with the printer, we recommend choosing PLA for the initial print. This material is easy to work with and does not require complex pre-print preparation.
Before you insert the filament, start by placing the filament spool on the side holder. Be careful not to let go of the end of the filament strand - the spool could easily tangle up.
If there is filament already in the lines please remove following the removing filament guidance below.
After use: Please completely remove your filaments from all of the lines rather than leaving a clipped amount in. Due to the PTFE lines this would be a significant loss of filament and also potential pain of the filament being used by accident by following prints.
The priming tower (not to be confused with the wipe tower produced by MMU2S/MMU3) is a small, mostly hollow block that is used to stabilize the pressure inside the nozzle once an extruder is unparked from the dock. The printer extrudes a tiny amount of filament from the nozzle to stabilize the pressure inside the nozzle and then continues to print the main object. As a result, the priming tower is thin and light, resulting in minimal waste. The priming tower is supported with a hollow cone to ensure better stability. The priming tower settings can be altered in the Print Settings → Multiple Extruders menu. However, the default values work for the vast majority of prints and we recommend keeping them untouched. In case you're encountering stability issues, you may consider changing the Width of the tower or the Stabilization cone apex angle.
Switching between extruders is nearly instantaneous and there is very little waste because the XL doesn’t require a full wipe tower or a bin for plastic waste. All that is needed is a compact priming tower design to stabilize the pressure inside the nozzle. You can further reduce the amount of wasted filament by employing smart features from our PrusaSlicer, such as wipe to infill, which allows you to prime the nozzle into the object’s infill.
Similarly to the MK4 is that it's very easy to print on different steel sheets. We have three:
Toolhead 1 is equipped with a 0.4 mm ObXidian nozzle, allowing it to print with abrasive materials such as CF/GF filled filaments. DO NOT PRINT THESE WITH OTHER NOZZLES, ONLY TOOLHEAD 1. It will work with all other filaments on the approved list as well and should be all around more durable than the other nozzles.
The tools can get slightly out of line with each other. This can be particularly noticeable on the z axis – when multi material printing, you might find that one tool prints slightly higher or lower than the others. If this happens, you can re-run the tool offset calibration wizard: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/4-first-run_468832#469249
As the printer isn't enclosed, it's prone to getting dust on the bed, and as it's a bigger bed anyway, it takes more cleaning. You might find that it takes noticeably more time to fully clean the bed. If you're having problems with bed adhesion, make sure it's very thoroughly cleaned.